My mass air flow is not giving out any codes
My car's transmission is unknown to me.
This is what causes the non-starting problem you describe. This can also cause the engine to struggle to idle for the same reason. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and replace this sensor.
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Over time, the transmission fluid gathers dirt and grime. This can cause the engine to run roughly, stall or fail to accelerate when you press down on the gas pedal. You may need to have a transmission fluid change before more damage is done.
When you get the mass air flow sensor installation done, the process has not finished yet. Instead, it needs several additional steps for a complete replacement. After changing a mass air flow sensor, you should disconnect it from the car battery for around 15 minutes.
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I usually check this by installing a scan tool to see what the fuel trim readings are. This will tell me if it is getting too much air or fuel and where to start. I have seen more intake manifold gasket failures on this engine than anything else. If you are going to have this repaired, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to you home or office to diagnose your Check Engine Light and repair it accordingly.
This is what causes the non-starting problem you describe. This can also cause the engine to struggle to idle for the same reason. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and replace this sensor.
The manufacturer has a Technical Service Bulletin that came out January 30th of 2015. The bulletin number is NTB12-051J and it is for the engine code P0101 returning over and over again. The computer program will need to be reprogrammed using the CONSULT scanner with the latest calibration files from the manufacturer.
You can consult a mechanic like one from YourMechanic to make sure this is the problem by scanning the Check Engine Light for other codes first. You may have to get the Nissan dealer to reprogram the computer and perform all steps in the service bulletin after reprogramming it to relearn the throttle and idle controls.
For the intake air flow leak, check the intake for any vacuum leaks on both sides of the throttle. Check all of the hoses from the air cleaner box to the throttle and check the manifold and all vacuum line including the brake booster line for any leaks. Put a vacuum hose on the engine and see what the engine vacuum is at idle. The vacuum should be 17 hg to 22 hg on the gauge. If there is a vacuum less that that, then there is a leak. If you need further assistance with your fuel system and a vacuum leak, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
If the BARO sensors readings are off, the supplied amount of fuel will be incorrect, and can therefore cause running issues. I would first check all of the intake plumbing to be sure it is all seated and tight, and then test the BARO sensor for correct function.
I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to determine why your car is idling rough and if the barometric sensor needs replacing.