My car steering pulls and turns
My car steering pulls while crossing on tar strips and steering wheel vibrates and shakes and also my car makes knocking and clunking sound.
My car has 40000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Since you’ve only supplied the year of your car there is not much information for me to go on. For example, you may have electric steering or standard steering. You may have lane change assist or other possible options that would need to be narrowed down. I’d suggest getting your car looked at by one of our mobile experts to diagnose the shaking you’re experiencing and help you fix it from there.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Bad Bearings — Friction from bad bearings or inadequate lubrication can cause a shaky steering wheel. If bearings are the cause, you`ll notice that the shaking only occurs as you turn the wheel. To solve this problem, you can oil the bearings, or schedule a service appointment to replace them if there`s damage.
An unbalanced wheel will cause the tyre to vibrate which then causes the steering wheel to shake. If there`s too much weight on one side of the wheel, it can cause the car to pull to that side as well as shaking the steering wheel.
The most common reason is simply due to wear and tear on the parts of your car. Over time, the bearings in your steering column can become worn down, causing them to make noise when they rub against each other. Another common cause of noise from the steering wheel is due to a lack of lubrication.
Any unusual shaking or vibrating forces coming from the engine is cause for concern. It could be something as simple as old spark plugs producing an uneven power delivery, it could be something serious like worn or broken engine mounts, or it could be even more serious in the case of internal engine damage.
Wheel, Tyre or Brake Faults
If your car wobbles, vibrates or shakes while you`re moving, there`s a good chance there`s a problem with the wheels or tyres. Wheel and tyre issues account for the majority of death wobbles out on the road, so regular maintenance and upkeep are essential.
Consistently shaking steering wheel when idling
Many don`t associate this as a symptom linked with power steering problems, primarily because the driver isn`t steering at that point. On-going, consistent shaking may be linked with other areas as well, such as a warped rotor or a problem with the engine mount.
There are several other possible causes of a vehicle pulling to the side, including a bad wheel bearing, worn steering linkage, an uncalibrated steering angle sensor, or a worn tie rod — all of which are difficult to diagnose on your own and could be dangerous if left unattended.
Tie Rods: A clunking sound as you turn can be a sign of a loose or busted tie rod. Sway Bar Link: When experiencing poor handling in conjunction with a knocking noise while you turn, your sway bar is likely the culprit.
That said, if the alignment is off by enough, it can even cause your vehicle to shake! As the front wheels right with the rest of the car, vibrations can develop which travel up the steering column and rattle the steering wheel, shaking you in your driver`s seat.
# The most common reason for a car to shake is related to tires. If the tires are out of balance then the steering wheel can shake. This shaking starts at around 50-55 miles per hour (mph). It gets worse around 60 mph but starts to get better at high speeds.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
steering wheel won’t unlock my key turns only to turn lights on but that’s it can’t unlock steering wheel to start the car what to
The steering lock may not be unlocking either due to a faulty ignition lock housing or more commonly as the cars age a faulty spring at the steering wheel on the under side of the column. If the ignition lock housing is the issue the housing can be replaced. It s a bit tricky as the mounting bolt has break off heads and generally need to be driven out with a punch. If the lock is not disengaging because of a faulty spring on the ignition lock many owners have had the spring removed by having it drilled out of the housing. However, removing the spring may permanently disable the steering lock. The last option would be to replace the steering column. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic who can recommend the proper repair for your situation.
Car won’t turn over. No lights come on when I turn it. Can’t even lock my doorsvor push the seat up or back.
Your probably correct, it sounds as though your battery is done. But it also sounds like you have charging system issues. I’m not sure that fixing your battery and charging system will solve the problem with the car shutting off, but it’s possible that it will and it’s a darned good place to start. By contacting Your Mechanic, you can have a technician come to your home or office to check out your car and help you figure out what to do next.
As I’m driving, all my lights inside/out of the car turn off and the car still stays on. But when I turn the car off it won’t turn over
Hello there. The charging system on the car may not be charging the battery as you drive and the systems that keep the engine running are priority so the engine will stay running until the voltage drops below about 9 volts but the lighting and some other accessories may cut off above this voltage first. You should have the charging system tested to see if the alternator needs to be replaced.
Engine turned off but inside of car still on, now engine won’t turn back on.
Hi there. The symptoms you’re describing with your boyfriend’s 2002 Grand Cherokee appear to be related to a broken or worn out ignition switch or relay. The ignition switch on the inside of the steering column is attached to multiple electronic connections that send signals to a relay box; which in turn, sends the signal to the individual components. The issue could be related to the ignition switch, the relay, or any of the components in between. If you want to have the fault pinpointed in person, I would have this starting issue inspected by a trained professional to ensure that the correct repair is made.
Power steering loss, no belts are turning but the car is running fine. I also have a soft pedal. Whats wrong with my car?
I have only seen this situation once in my 30+ years and it turned out to be a broken crankshaft pulley. Belts are driven by the engine. The crankshaft pulley spins the belts, which in turn spin the air conditioner compressor, power steering and water pumps, and the alternator. The vehicle should be towed to your local repair shop and not driven. Without the water pump spinning to circulate the coolant, the engine will quickly overheat and result in more extensive damage.
Driving, then engine/oil light turns on, steering locks up, car dies; but just fine after turning off than on.
Any time loss of steering, or power assist to the steering is lost, it can be a safety issue and should be looked into as soon as possible. If the oil light and/or check engine light are flashing before it stalls, it can be a few different issues causing this. Also, a fault code may be stored in the system. Warning lights flashing after the engine stalls is normal. Most engine control units monitor readings from the oil pressure switch as well as the dozens of other sensors. Make sure the engine oil level is correct. If the oil pressure switch is intermittently losing it’s signal, then the ecu may think there is no engine oil pressure and shut down as a safety measure.
Have a certified technician look into the engine stalling as soon as possible. Losing steering and brake assist can be a safety hazard.
I pulled into a parking spot and put my car into park, when I lifted my foot from the brake the car continues forward.
The vehicle transmission did not get back to the park position due to the shift cable came off of the transmission shift linkage. You will need to have a mechanic like one from YourMechanic come to you and check the shift cable connection at the transmission to see if the shift cable bushing broke and let the cable end disengage from the shift linkage. The shift cable may need replaced if the cable end bushing is not available. I recommend a mechanic check the shift cable and replace cable or repair cable end as parts allow.
my car has theissue that it often lose power steering suddenly while turning.nothing leaks but there’s clunky noice when turning
The only way to determine if the collision caused damage is to carefully MEASURE the alignment and, as well, the frame dimensions using a tram. If those steps have not been specifically taken, what the mechanics have told you about "no damage" is meaningless. If the dealer has told you there is a problem with the steering rack, there very well could be and that possibility should be investigated. If the rack is faulty, it should be repaired or replaced. There is not supposed to be any clunking noises when you turn the steering wheel. The fact that there is a noise indicates a problem. The noise could be due to a problem with the strut bearing that allows the strut to turn freely with the steering knuckle, a defective tie rod end, a sway bar link or component and so forth. If you have hydraulically (not electric) assisted powered steering, loss of power assist could be due to a fault with the pump, the pump drive belt, or rack. Based on what you are describing, I would recommend you request a steering inspection – intermittent loss of assist and the responding certified mechanic will pinpoint the origin of the noise, as well as the cause of loss of assist, and get the required repairs implemented. With regard to the possibility of damage to the suspension and/or frame due to the collision, the ONLY way to determine that is to have those components measured using the appropriate tools and having in hand the Factory Service Manual which contains every relevant frame measurement for reference. You CANNOT visually look at a vehicle and determine if it is straight and undamaged because some of the specifications are measured within tens of thousandths of an inch (toe, for example) or tiny fractions of a degree (wheel camber). A carefully selected shop with trained individuals will have to perform such an inspection. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.