My car keeps shutting off and shaking and not wanting to excel

I am driving my car and it's shaking and shuts off I have to hammer the pedal just to get it to go then it says sos get the car to a workshop what could the issue be

My car has 10030 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there:

Depending on the location of the vibration and the severity, it could be caused by multiple component failures ranging from a simple vacuum leak to motor mounts that are faulty. The best way to determine what is causing your shaking problems is to have a mobile mechanic from YourMechanic.com complete a engine is shaking or pulsing inspection first; so they can pinpoint the source of the issue and recommend the right repairs.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

Tire issues: The most frequent causes of a vehicle shaking while driving stem from tire issues. Tires begin to behave differently when worn or out of balance. Tire replacement, realignment, and rebalancing are common solutions.
Engine vibrations can occur if there is a problem with the timing belt. A timing belt drives certain components, for example, fans. You may experience engine vibrations in your Mercedes if these belts are loose or worn. This vibration can be reduced by checking and replacing your timing belts, if necessary.
If you notice an engine shudder or vibration especially when idling, then this could be a motor mount issue. Another way to confirm this is to put your car into neutral and see if the vibration lessens or stops altogether. If this is the case, then there`s a strong chance that your motor mounts need attention.
If the check engine light in your Mercedes-Benz ML 350 starts glaring, that means that the problem needs hasty attention and your Mercedes-Benz should be brought in expeditiously. This blinking light usually indicates a severe engine misfire allowing unburned fuel to be dumped into the exhaust system.
The most prevalent cause of vibration is problems with your wheels or tires. The potential problems include improper wheel and tire balance, uneven tire wear, separated tire tread, out of round tires, damaged wheels and even loose lug nuts.
There are a few parts within a vehicle`s engine that could cause a car to shake if they malfunction. These include the spark plugs and engine air filter. Check the spark plugs and their connections. As a general rule, spark plugs last for about 80,000-100,000 miles, depending on the make and model of your vehicle.
If you begin to feel persistent shaking in your car, it`s best that you get to the problem right away before continuing to drive. Continuing to drive with the shaking can result in further damaging parts, ruining your tires, and other costly problems that could be avoided by a quick trip to your mechanic.
Your car`s shaking when accelerating may be caused by damaged engine mounts. This may happen if even one of the motor mounts is damaged, which would place more strain on the remaining mounts. One approach to stop vibration during acceleration is to replace damaged motor mounts.
Motor mounts keep the engine attached to the car. If the vehicle shakes or the engine shudders a lot when stopped at a stoplight, or when parked with the engine idling, it might indicate the motor mounts or transmission mounts are damaged or broken. To see if this is really the problem, shift the car into neutral.
Faulty Battery

A classic reason why your car starts for a second then dies is battery depletion. The car needs electricity from the battery to start. However, if your car starts then dies immediately, then the fault could be a lack of charging or damaged battery.

Check your gas cap first. Many vehicles have a loose gas cap indicator that will be triggered before your check engine light comes on. If your gas cap is loose or the seal is not tight, the vapor leakage can cause your fuel system to trigger the check engine light.
With the first visit at approximately 10,000 miles or 1 years whichever comes first – and then approximately every 20,000 miles or 2 years after that – Service A includes: Mercedes-Benz motor oil replacement. Oil filter replacement. Fluid level checks and corrections. Tire inflation check and correction.
Improperly functioning spark plugs cause an uneven burn of fuel in the engine, resulting in fluctuating RPMs and a louder noise. You might also experience increased vibrations of your vehicle while sitting idle or while traveling at low speeds. These vibrations originate from the engine and can shake the entire car.
Your car`s shaking when accelerating may be caused by damaged engine mounts. This may happen if even one of the motor mounts is damaged, which would place more strain on the remaining mounts. One approach to stop vibration during acceleration is to replace damaged motor mounts.
Worn-out spark plugs or the electrical cables attached to them are one of the most common causes of cars juddering. A faulty spark plug could cause the engine to misfire. Any halt in the ignition of the fuel-air mixture could cause the engine to halt momentarily – resulting in a judder.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My car keeps shutting off and shaking and not wanting to excel
ANSWER : Hi there:

Depending on the location of the vibration and the severity, it could be caused by multiple component failures ranging from a simple vacuum leak to motor mounts that are faulty. The best way to determine what is causing your shaking problems is to have a mobile mechanic from YourMechanic.com complete a engine is shaking or pulsing inspection first; so they can pinpoint the source of the issue and recommend the right repairs.

I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

My car shuts off while driving and then turns back on multiple times or shuts off after driving and car turns off.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the alternator and make sure that the wiring it connected tight. Check the battery cables and make sure that they are tight and clean. Look for any loose ground wires to the chassis on the vehicle. If everything checks out to be working correctly, then the PCM may need to be replaced as it may have a battery disconnect condition. If you need further assistance with multiple functions shutting off, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

Car starts but keeps shutting off when I apply brakes or slow down
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. Having the precise codes is very important– even if the Check Engine is no longer illuminated. There can be transient codes that have not yet set off the light. The idle air control valve and throttle body may need cleaning. With your mileage clogged fuel filter and dirty/leaking injectors are something to check as well. A clogged catalytic converter is a possibility– that would be most apparent by an inability to build up speed, or take on hills where more power is required. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.

My car want start and when it do it shut down and want start until 30 minute or so. Now it want do nothing
ANSWER : When a car turns and won’t start, it is called a "crank no start". When this occurs, the first thing you need to do is see what is missing. All internal combustion motors need spark, fuel, injector pulse and camshaft timing to run. If one of these is missing, you have a crank no start. Diagnose the car and see what is missing.

The GM 3.8l motor has been installed in Buicks, Pontiacs and Chevrolets for decades. Particularly during the 90’s and early 00’s, these motors have used an ignition module with three coils mounted to it. This module is prone to just this type of failure. When it gets too hot, it quits working. When it cools off, it starts again. It can also display intermittent no start conditions. This is a pattern failure on this particular motor. Before I would ever replace the module, I would check for spark and injector pulse. If it just lacks spark, I would check for a crank sensor signal and replace the ignition module.

Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, do a few tests first:

Check fuel pressure. If there is none, check the fuse and the relay.
Check for injector pulse with a noid light. If this is missing, I would suspect a crank sensor. It could be a bad Power Control Module (PCM). (PCM’s are very rare to fail. I have never changed a PCM on one of these cars.)
Check for spark with a spark tester. If it is lacking spark but has injector pulse, suspect the ignition module.

If all these are present, I would take a compression test of all the cylinders. If camshaft timing is off, several of the cylinders will have significantly lower compression. Also, camshaft timing won’t start sometimes then not others; it will either start and run bad or it won’t start at all. It may sound like it is trying to start, but it won’t start.

If all of this sounds to daunting, I recommend booking a car is not starting inspection with YourMechanic

Good luck!

Car keeps cranking over when not holding key, but still wont start
ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.

Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage
ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.

Car shuts off, won’t stay running
ANSWER : The most common problem on this vehicle is the fuel pump and fuel pump module. If you remove the rear seat that the fuel pump cover is, on the passenger side. Listen to the fuel pump when it is running and when the car stalls your fuel pump will stop running about three to five seconds before the engine dies. Then you’ll know if the fuel pump is the culprit or not.

You can try and replace the fuel pump module first then replace the fuel pump. However, the fuel pump can short the module out, causing both to be bad and would need to be replaced. If you need assistance with this, feel free to contact a certified mechanic who can diagnose your starting issue firsthand and help you fix it accordingly.