My car engine shuts off after the engine is warm.

On January 2, Monday evening, I was coming home from work when my engine just shut off. I was able to steer into a McDonald's parking lot. I tried to start it again it started up but as I tried to drive it the engine shutoff again. I tried it again and it didn't start. After approximately 2 3 hours I started it and was able to drive home. I have driven the car only a couple of times around my neighborhood without any problems but the weather has been cold here so the engine really hasn't had a chance to warm up. Some people have told me it's probably my fuel pump

My car has

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi There,
What you are describing sounds like an ignition coil pack that may be failing. Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The main cause of engine stall at high temperature is rapid fuel boiling by increasing fuel temperature. This causes a lot of vapor. Such vapor flows into the fuel pump which leading to decrease the pump load and the current consumption of the fuel pump continuously. This ultimately results in engine stall.
Common reasons for this to happen:

Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine.

The cold starting issue could possibly be caused by a failing fuel pump or even a temperature sensor. Heat increases resistance in electrical circuits, and it is possible that once the fuel pump has been running for a while, high resistance causes it to slow or stop.
That problem may suggest you need to clean the throttle body, replace fuel filter, replace air filter, replace spark plugs or have fuel injector problems (I had mine cleaned and balanced and it helped my start-ups alot).
Some vehicles will shut off automatically if the engine reaches too high of a temperature. I would first recommend having a cooling system pressure test performed on the vehicle to make sure you have no leaks.
How to Turn On/Off Toyota Auto Start & Stop. To the left of your steering wheel, you`ll see an “Off” button. Simply press that button at any point after you`ve turned on the engine to disable the auto start/stop feature. This will let you keep your engine on, even during long red lights.
Fuel Pressure & Fuel Pump

When the fuel pump starts to go bad, that pressure will start to go away when the engine isn`t running. This is one of the most common reasons that your car won`t start after it`s sat for many hours.

Symptoms of a faulty cold start valve:

The car may take several attempted ignitions before the engine is finally able to turn over. Engine stalling – After your engine starts, you may experience stalling while you drive. This will either occur at higher RPMs or when you take your foot off the pedal.

The cold start valve is also known as a `cold start injector`. It sits in your car`s intake manifold and links with the cold air intake. Your engine needs to be at the temperature to deliver power around the car. While older cars use a choke to deliver extra fuel, the cold start valve is its equivalent in modern cars.
Bad Sensors

One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.

A difficult start could be due to a number of things, from a dying battery to a faulty starter. But if your vehicle has a hard time starting after sitting for just a few hours, it can cause an extra layer of confusion. When this happens, one of the most common causes is low fuel pressure.
With the fuel pressure gauge attached, start the engine and let it idle. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator; the pressure should drop approximately 8 to 10 PSI. If it does not, suspect a problem with the regulator or its` vacuum supply.
Low coolant: Whether caused by a leak or water evaporation, low coolant is the most common source of poor heater output. Thermostat: A stuck-open thermostat prevents the engine (and coolant) from heating up. Heater core: A clogged heater core restricts coolant flow, giving up little or no heat.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Car not speeding up smoothly, service engine light on when first start driving and car vibrating
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor. The problem this can cause may also be compounded when the engine is cold due to the change in air density in cooler weather. The mass air flow sensor monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. This sensor relays information about fuel and air temperature, air speed entering the motor and many other things to the ECM which uses this to make adjustments to fuel supply to the motor. A dirty or faulty sensor can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This type of inconsistent fuel supply to the motor may cause a hesitation, loss of power, a jerking reaction, potentially a bit of black exhaust smoke and typically a strong smell of fuel when this sensor is malfunctioning. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

Reduced engine power and car shuts off
ANSWER : Hi there. If there is carbon build up on the valves in the engine then that can cause a rough running condition and even a check engine light but that will not usually cause the vehicle to stall. It sounds like you have another issue going on here. From my experience with this vehicle most of the time this is caused by a voltage issue. Most of the time it is a loose or dirty ground connection or an issue with the ignition switch. I usually start by scanning the computer for codes to see what is coming up as that can assist in finding the issue. If the codes do not help then the electrical system would need to be diagnosed to see where the power is being lost. If you need to have this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to you to [diagnose why the check engine light is on and why the vehicle is stalling] https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-is-stalling-inspection

I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

My car stalls at times, yesterday the car shut off at a red light. I turned car off then back on now engine light is on.
ANSWER : This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and replace your idle air control valve.

My car engine shuts off after the engine is warm.
ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing sounds like an ignition coil pack that may be failing. Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.

My car shuts off while driving and then turns back on multiple times or shuts off after driving and car turns off.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the alternator and make sure that the wiring it connected tight. Check the battery cables and make sure that they are tight and clean. Look for any loose ground wires to the chassis on the vehicle. If everything checks out to be working correctly, then the PCM may need to be replaced as it may have a battery disconnect condition. If you need further assistance with multiple functions shutting off, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

The engine of the car runs, but when I push the gas pedal it does not accelerate, and the engine does not rev.
ANSWER : Hello. It sounds like you may have an issue with your throttle position sensor. This sensor sends a reference voltage to your power-train control module, which uses that to determine ignition timing and fuel trims. If the power-train control module is not detecting the proper signal from the throttle position sensor, the engine may not accelerate properly. It’s probably a good idea for you to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection first, so they can pinpoint what is causing this issue to occur and they will recommend the right repairs be completed.

Oil leaking from under car and "remote control car" sound when car is first started for a few minutes until it warm up.
ANSWER : Hello,
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.