My car does not make a sound when I turn the key

My car does not pick up but it does not make a sound when I turn the key on, I do not know how to explain.
I took it to the mechanic and he said it was 250 pounds but he barely saw the car

My car has 120000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a bad battery connection or potentially a faulty starter relay. The starter relay directs power from the battery to the starter solenoid which then engages the starter when you turn the key. When this is not working properly, you may notice intermittent starting problems including no response when turning the key to start. Generally, when this does fail, it does so very randomly and usually without warning other than intermittent starting. The power from the battery will still power other accessories such as radio, horn, etc., but you may not have any power to the starter. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

You may need to clean or replace the battery terminal or cables. What if the car makes a clicking noise but doesn`t start? The clicking sounds usually means it`s a dead battery. If it`s not a dead battery, check for a loose connection to and from the starter.
Thebattery is nearing the end of its life.
When a CV joint becomes damaged, the axle loses its flexibility, and will make a constant clicking noise when the wheels are turned. Bad struts: Your struts are an important part of your suspension system.
A creaking sound when turning your steering wheel may be nothing more than a sign that your suspension system needs lubrication, but it may be a sign of something more serious, including tie rod damage, power steering rack damage, or a failing strut/shock.
If you don`t hear clicking when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear clicking, but the engine doesn`t crank, the starter might not be getting enough electricity. Using your owner`s manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.
It might be a faulty starter.

One of the symptoms of a bad starter is a single clicking noise when you turn the key or push the start button. Tapping the starter can sometimes get it going again, but no guarantees. Most likely, you`ll need to get your starter repaired or replaced.

Low oil pressure might be the cause of those ticking sounds. When vital engine components don`t get adequate lubrication, it might cause other problems, and the engine starts to make these noises. A broken valve train component, such as lifters or cam followers, can also cause ticking, tapping, or clicking sounds.
Most likely a battery problem – a discharged battery, battery`s electrical connections is faulty. Second likely problem – a bad starter. You can re-charge the battery if it hold a charge. The connection can be check and re-tighten as needed.
If the driver exits the vehicle and does not open a rear door to retrieve their item(s), the RDA system will escalate to a specific pattern of horn honks and chirps. These can be shut off by opening a rear door on the vehicle or with a button on the key fob.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Engine turned off but inside of car still on, now engine won’t turn back on.
ANSWER : Hi there. The symptoms you’re describing with your boyfriend’s 2002 Grand Cherokee appear to be related to a broken or worn out ignition switch or relay. The ignition switch on the inside of the steering column is attached to multiple electronic connections that send signals to a relay box; which in turn, sends the signal to the individual components. The issue could be related to the ignition switch, the relay, or any of the components in between. If you want to have the fault pinpointed in person, I would have this starting issue inspected by a trained professional to ensure that the correct repair is made.

Have a 2008 Hyundai Sante Fe and it starts when the key is in position II instead of III and makes a click sound when turning off
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a faulty ignition switch that may be causing the ignition to send power to the starter inadvertently rather than kill the power to the ignition like it is supposed to when turning it off. When you turn the key to the start position, the starter relay sends power to the starter which then engages the flywheel and turns the engine over. When the engine is running the flywheel is already spinning at a very fast pace. When the starter relay inadvertently directs power to the starter when the motor is running, this causes the starter gear to engage the flywheel which is already spinning at a very high RPM, thus producing a grinding type sound. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect the vehicle.

car won’t start.
ANSWER : A possibility is a faulty ignition switch. If the switch opens after the car starts, the engine will shut off. But, that is just a possibility and a diagnostic would have to be performed to rule that in or out. Be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Starters motors can display intermittent operation if they are faulty. With a fully charged battery, if the starter motor does not run that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit (includes the ignition switch) or a problem with the starter motor itself. If there is power to the starter motor and yet it doesn’t run, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter, or there is a big voltage drop anywhere on the circuit to the starter, then the circuit has to be traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

what does the clicking sound indicate when my car wont start
ANSWER : There are a variety of clicks you might hear when the car fails to start. Gentle clicks from under the dashboard mean the relays are activating, but the starter is not working. A strong tap from under the hood might be the starter solenoid engaging, but there not being enough power to drive the starter. Sometimes the starter may give a rapid tap tap tapping if it is trying to engage, but the battery is not strong enough. In your case, it may be that your charging system has failed and you have been running on the battery. It doesn’t take nearly as much power to operate the lights as it does the starter, so it’s a possibility that is all the trouble you have. You can find out for sure by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your starting problem and let you know what it will take to solve it.

Car won’t turn over. No lights come on when I turn it. Can’t even lock my doorsvor push the seat up or back.
ANSWER : Your probably correct, it sounds as though your battery is done. But it also sounds like you have charging system issues. I’m not sure that fixing your battery and charging system will solve the problem with the car shutting off, but it’s possible that it will and it’s a darned good place to start. By contacting Your Mechanic, you can have a technician come to your home or office to check out your car and help you figure out what to do next.

Car won’t start key turns and lights dim when it cranks. I just don’t hear a buzzing sound from the fuel pump when turn key to on
ANSWER : Code U1100 signifies a communications error which is either a module fault or a deficiency in the wiring harness between communicating modules. There’s a possibility that a dying battery is a cause of such a code (and a cause of your no start condition, as well) and so the very first thing to do is be sure you have a fully, 100% charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. To temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions.

If the battery tests good after an actual load test, attempt to start the car. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power, or a large voltage drop is measured, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, IF the starter motor is getting power but the starter does not work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, if the starter motor is NOT getting power, then the circuit is diagnosed and that diagnostic, in your circumstance, may have a tie-in to the U1100 code. That remains to be seen, of course.

If the above protocol does not identify the issue for you, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you promptly. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.