My 1998 Isuzu Rodeo LS gets hot, then cools, then gets hot and stays hot

ANSWER : There is inadequate coolant flow or, less likely, a leak at the head gasket. Remote possibilities include dragging brakes, under inflated tires, and transmission faults. Inadequate coolant flow can be due to a low coolant level, a faulty thermostat, a plugged radiator, a faulty radiator pressure cap, collapsed hoses, non functioning cooling fans, and a faulty water pump or drive belt. Certain engine faults, such as a leaking head gasket or poor engine running condition can also cause overheating. If you desire that this problem be diagnosed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request an engine overheating diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : The main two reasons that a vehicle will overheat at low speeds but remain cool at high speeds are a clogged radiator or an inoperative cooling fan. I would first recommend driving your vehicle a short distance to get it to operating temperature. Then, stop the vehicle, open the hood, and check to see if the radiator fan is working. If the fan is not working, this is the cause of your problem. The radiator fan’s job is to keep air flow through the radiator when the vehicle is moving at slower speeds. The radiator being cloggeed by contaminants can also prevent air flow through the radiator. I would recommend having your radiator checked for hot spots using an infared thermometer if your fan is working to determine if it is clogged. Consider YourMechanic as a certified professional can come to your home or office to inspect your cooling system for you.

ANSWER : There are a few reasons that a caliper piston might fail to retract and there is also the possibility that the heat is being generated by a failing wheel bearing. If the issue is brake related, pressure in the line might be failing to release (due to a line fault such as a blockage), the pads might be stuck or binding in the torque plate and there could be problems with the sliding pins in the torque plate. Also, you’ll want to check for a parking brake assembly that is failing to retract at that wheel position. To obtain a quick resolution of this, you can request a brake inspection and a certified mechanic will come right to your location. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : This can be caused for a variety of reasons such as a malfunctioning thermostat, a radiator not flowing properly, a faulty coolant temp sensor or AC refrigerant not properly being supplied to the AC compressor. Your car’s AC system puts a heavy strain on your car’s engine when it runs as it requires a lot of power to run. When the AC compressor comes on it puts additional strain on the motor that may be already struggling to stay cool as a result of any of the issues named above. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose and repair.

ANSWER : Hi There,
If your heat blows warm and then cold in addition to the engine overheating, this may very well be a thermostat issue. This may also be an issue of air being trapped in the radiator or heater core. This causes this type of cycling effect with hot and then cold air being blown into the cab of the vehicle. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to provide my insight.

From the description of your 2010 Pontiac G6 braking issue, there are a few likely causes. If the piston in the caliper did not move freely than this will allow the brake pad to drag on the rotor. When the pad drags it can overheat the rear brakes and cause them to fail. The caliper will need to be inspected before the vehicle is driven more.

If you would like help getting these inspected, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose these brake problems for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.

ANSWER : Hello,
You should check with the person you bought the fan from. I show a listing of a single or a dual fan system. You should replace the fan with the same as what was removed. You should not use the single fan when you were equipped with a dual fan system. The wiring and programming is different depending on how it was made.

ANSWER : Hi…stop leak products should never be introduced into a car engine’s cooling system simply because such aftermarket products are not a factory authorized or factory sanctioned repair technique. Some factory service manuals are indeed emphatic on this issue. A stop leak product is, in essence, a foreign contaminant and thus has the potential to plug up cooling passageways, the radiator and so forth. The only recognized technique employed by professional mechanics when it comes to a leak in the cooling system is to repair the leak, period. At this point, by far the cheapest and most effective strategy for you will be to have a mechanic identify the leak(s) (via pressure testing, if need be, on a cold engine), repair the leak, and thoroughly flush the cooling system to hopefully remove all traces of the stop leak product. The cooling system has to then be refilled with new coolant, while purging all air, and tested. On a vehicle with over 200,000 miles, it is possible the leak occurred along with other cooling system faults such as a failing thermostat, water pump, and possibly partly clogged passageways, particularly in the radiator. All of that will have to be evaluated to ensure that no further overheating occurs. To get this resolved promptly and professionally, by all means please feel free to request a leak diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get you squared away. If you have additional concerns or questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.