Mounts for safe jacking the car up

Mounts for safe jacking the car up

On the sub-frame of my car, there are circular cuffs with the bolt in the middle. Somebody told me these are body mounts. I'm just wondering if these are the mounts to safely jack the car up?

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :

Yes, that is what they are for. A lot of German cars have them. They are made so that you can jack them up at these safe points and not worry about anything bending or slipping. That’s where you’ll want to put the jack. They are deliberately made that way.

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The jacking points for most vehicles are reinforced metal ribs specifically designed to safely lift the vehicle. On most vehicles, there are four jacking points. They`re located under the car`s rocker panels, just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels.

Never attempt to jack up a car on unstable ground! Instead, make sure you`re on a hard, flat surface, away from potential hazards or moving vehicles. Use a concrete driveway or garage floor. Do not jack up your vehicle on the road.

Never jack up a vehicle without blocking the wheels to keep it from rolling. Use bricks, wooden wedges, or metal wheel chocks to block the wheels at the end of the car that isn`t being raised. If you`re changing a tire and you have nothing to block the wheels with, park near the curb with the wheels turned in.

Jack stands do not lift vehicles. Instead, they provide a safe, fixed support for a raised vehicle. Use a pair of jack stands every time you lift a vehicle and you will vastly decrease the likelihood of becoming a victim of a falling vehicle.

Near the front & rear wheel

When it comes to changing car tyres, the most ideal place is near the front wheel or near the rear wheels. This doesn`t lift up the entire car at once, but a part of it. You can move the jack from one wheel to another while changing the tyres using this method.

If you`re just changing a wheel then just jack up that side, just enough to comfortably remove and refit the wheel. Just be sure to use axle stands, and lower the car onto them and not rely on the jack.

Take the archetypal car-lifting example. A person exhibiting hysterical strength is reckoned to have lifted at least 3000lbs (or about a tonne and a half) – the ballpark weight of a mass-market, non-truck, passenger vehicle.

Don`t lift the car any higher than you need to. Lifting the tire a few inches off the ground is sufficient to remove the wheel and change a flat or check the brakes or suspension.

There are three main types of car jack: the trolley jack, bottle jack and scissor jack. They all do the same thing, but in a slightly different way, and some types are more stable than others.

Trying to jack a vehicle in neutral is one way to hurt yourself and damage your vehicle. If your vehicle sports a manual transmission, be sure it`s also in park and depress the parking brake for added security. If you have wheel chocks available, place them behind any wheels that will remain on the ground.

The only place you should ever jack up a car is on a paved surface, and that paved surface should be concrete, not asphalt. Jack stands could potentially cut right through some types of asphalt surfaces, especially on hot days when it starts to soften. Never attempt to jack up a car on gravel, dirt or grass.

Before you begin the jacking process, engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent unwanted movement. You`ll want to start jacking from the front of the vehicle. The front end of four-wheel-drive trucks can be raised by placing the jack under the differential.

Hi-Lift jacks can also be dangerous with the potential to cause smashed fingers, missing teeth, and concussions. That doesn`t mean that you need to be afraid of these tools. You just need to have a healthy respect for them and learn how to use them properly. The trick is to learn the easy way and not the hard way.

You must use jack stands when you work underneath your vehicle. If you don`t, you run the risk of serious injury or even death. People have been crushed to death when vehicles that were improperly secured fell on them. Never jack up a vehicle without blocking the wheels to keep it from rolling.

CAR SUPPORT & JACK POINTS

Front crossmembers and underneath the diff pumpkin are prime jacking points. While it`s possible to jack up one side only, the vehicle will be more stable if you jack up the front or rear as one unit and support it as such.

If you need to lift the vehicle to do work underneath it, you must properly place jack stands and let them carry the brunt of the load. Not only do you risk mechanical or hydraulic failure by only relying on a jack, you also create a potentially unbalanced, very heavy load by only jacking up one point.

Never place your jacks on an incline, as there`s always the chance of the car rolling off the stands. Sometimes even a parking lot can be slanted, but you can`t always determine that from the angle where the car is parked. Your jacks should be placed on a level surface, preferably a clean garage floor.

To raise one of the front wheels, position the jack just behind the wheel. To raise one of the rear wheels, position the jack just in front of the wheel. You can also raise both front (or both rear) wheels simultaneously, using a jack point midway between the front (or rear) wheels.

Jack Up the Front First

If you need to life all four wheels, start with the front wheels by jacking them up and placing jack stands, and then do the same for the rear. Also, make the car or truck as level as possible.

Answer: The object should be lifted by 0.2m and 20.4m to gain the potential energy of and respectively.

If you have gone hog wild and lifted your vehicle by several inches, speed is a much more significant factor when taking a curve or corner. The changes you made to the suspension to achieve that height may compensate for the higher center of gravity.

One of the most common reasons a jack won`t lift is incorrect fluid levels. First, remove the oil plug and look into the chamber to check the oil level. The suggested level for most floor jacks is 3/16 to a quarter above the reservoir. If you need to replenish, make sure you have the highest-grade oil possible.

They are safe to use, but not safe to work underneath. Hydraulic jacks usually have some amount of internal leakage which will cause the jack to bleed down and lower over time. Also, there is no positive stop in most cases. This is the reason why you should use jack stands if working underneath the vehicle.

Because a jacked vehicle will only be lifted from one corner, you will only need a jack with a lifting capacity of around three quarters of your vehicle`s total weight. For example, a full-size family saloon will probably only need a jack with a 2-ton capacity to lift it.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…

ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

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Mounts for safe jacking the car up

ANSWER : Yes, that is what they are for. A lot of German cars have them. They are made so that you can jack them up at these safe points and not worry about anything bending or slipping. That’s where you’ll want to put the jack. They are deliberately made that way.

Read Full Q/A … : Mounts for safe jacking the car up

The starter off and on wont turn over when trying to crank the car.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Often when starters are installed they come with a shim. These shims need to be installed to help hold the starter at the proper angle. If the angle is off the gears may not mesh correctly putting excess pressure on it that the starter cannot compete with. If the starter did not come with a shim, or you do not have it anymore, you can likely purchase or fabricate one relatively easily. If this does not solve the issue, make sure there are no wires that are being pinched or shorted out when the full weight of the car is being supported. For more help diagnosing the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment. And thank you for you service to our country.

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Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage

ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.

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Pop Sound When Jacking Up Car

ANSWER : At first glance, I wouldn’t assume you damage a CV joint during a tire change, however, if the tire blew out and was driven on for a while, that may have caused some damage. The clunking sound may have been caused by a body support mount that collapsed (although this is very rare) or the jack itself when you were lowering it. This is common with generic factory spare tire jacks.

The driver seat may be sitting low because of the different diameter of the spare tire on the passenger side, causing it to lean a bit. The best way to put your mind as ease is to contact one of our local mechanics to complete a visual inspection of where the noise took place and test drive the car for you. This way they can verify that nothing is damaged before you get back behind the wheel.

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Power steering loss, no belts are turning but the car is running fine. I also have a soft pedal. Whats wrong with my car?

ANSWER : I have only seen this situation once in my 30+ years and it turned out to be a broken crankshaft pulley. Belts are driven by the engine. The crankshaft pulley spins the belts, which in turn spin the air conditioner compressor, power steering and water pumps, and the alternator. The vehicle should be towed to your local repair shop and not driven. Without the water pump spinning to circulate the coolant, the engine will quickly overheat and result in more extensive damage.

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Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away

ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

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Rubber mount or hydraulic mount

ANSWER : Engine mount and motor mount are completely interchangeable terms that refer to the identical component. There is an additional mount though and that is the transaxle or transmission mount. That mount is important, too, in minimizing vibration. For ordinary passenger cars, there are no choices as to mount type (i.e., hydraulic versus solid rubber). Vibration at idle can have multiple causes so you should be sure that the mechanic has provided you with an accurate diagnostic, accompanied by reasoning as to why the mounts are the cause of the vibration versus other potential causes.

In your circumstance, where you are trying to resolve a vibration issue, it is recommended that the original OEM mounts, as designed and manufactured by Honda, be used as the replacements. If you use aftermarket mounts, and the vibration issue persists, it will literally be impossible to rule out the aftermarket mounts as a "new" source of vibration due to a defective design. To save yourself headaches, and further diagnostic problems if the vibration persists after replacement, if you suspect motor mounts are bad, replace with OEM mounts only. Obviously, the Honda mounts are going to be more expensive though. After replacing the mounts, if the vibration issue persists, the problem is either engine running condition, or a mechanical or balance issue with the engine, for example the harmonic balancer. Before doing anything, I would ask the mechanic who told you the mounts are bad what his reasoning is. If he has no credible explanation, you should get a diagnostic FIRST before replacing any parts. If you are in need of a diagnostic, please use YourMechanic’s vehicle engine vibration diagnostic service page. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic because we want you to make the most of your repair dollars and help you to get the best possible results.

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