Loss of power to driver’s side door, plus grinding sound from front left of car.

I hear a grinding sound coming from the front left. Also, no power to the driver's side door.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Looks like we have two separate issues happening to your Volkswagen Jetta. With such limited information it is difficult to determine where exactly the grinding could be coming from in your Jetta. The questions I would first ask are if this grinding sound happens consistently or does it happen at specific times, such as when applying the brakes or when turning? Grinding sounds can be the result of brakes that have worn out completely. Bad wheel bearings can also make this sound. This is a case where I would highly recommend having a certified mechanic inspect your vehicle for the noise. They will be able to test drive your Jetta, allowing them to listen for the noise. They will also be able to inspect your brakes and suspension systems for possible noise makers, determining exactly what is causing the grinding noise you are hearing on the left side.

In regards to the driver’s door not having power, it would be recommended to have a trained professional use his diagnostics tools and knowledge to diagnose why your door doesn’t have power. Often times there could be problems with the wires there.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

A common cause of grinding noises under your car are failing wheel or hub bearings. Wheel bearings allow the wheel and tire to rotate and are designed for low friction, while hub assemblies have an additional responsibility of securing the wheel and tire to the vehicle.
You might notice a grinding noise when driving at low speeds. The most common causes are problems with your continual velocity joints, brake pads, wheel bearings or alternator. Examining each one of these parts can help you pinpoint exactly where the issue is.
Wheel bearings are situated between the axle and the wheel, and minimize friction, allowing for smooth movement while driving. A grinding noise when turning may mean that the wheel bearing is worn out and should be replaced as soon as possible.
If you hear grinding noises when stopping or slowing down, your brake pads are most likely the issue. Remember, over time your brake pads lose their thickness and begin to make squealing noises known as “brake scrubbing.” As your pads wear down further, you`ll hear a grinding noise instead.
As the damage worsens, a faulty CV can produce a loud click, popping, or clunk sound. When making a tight turn at a low rate, frequent brake noise at low speed (caused by damage to the outer CV joints) causes grinding noises. A bad CV joint also causes a vibration in the steering wheel and the car`s floorboard.
Most of the time, if you hear scraping and grinding, it can be attributed to one of two main issues: Worn-out brake linings. Worn-out wheel/hub bearings.
A creaking sound when turning your steering wheel may be nothing more than a sign that your suspension system needs lubrication, but it may be a sign of something more serious, including tie rod damage, power steering rack damage, or a failing strut/shock.
If your transmission makes a grinding noise when you shift gears, you are likely experiencing friction between gears due to insufficient transmission fluid, worn transmission linkage, maladjusted binding, or a “dragging clutch.” If you hear grinding sounds when shifting from neutral to any gear, you may be dealing with …
If you hear this grinding noise both while you`re driving and idling, it`s possible that worn-out bearings are to blame. If the grinding noise comes when you shift, it`s likely due to a worn clutch. Grinding when you turn a corner could be due to a CV joint that needs to be replaced or another suspension issue.
The grinding noise when you accelerate likely has to do with your car`s planetary gear system. This system ensures that the speed of your car`s wheels match the speed of the engine. If your wheels and your engine are not in sync (hence the grinding), this can cause significant damage to your transmission.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Driver side door lock button not working, and passenger side sliding door makes a buzzing noise
ANSWER : Hi there. These door issues are common on this vehicle. Most of the time the main issue is the master door lock switch on the driver door. It sounds like you already replaced that. As for the sliding door problem, most of the time, this is a failure within the door module or it can be a connection issue.

I typically take the door apart and check the connections on the module and inside of the door just to make sure that there is nothing apparent in there. If the connections and the wiring are fine, then I use a scan tool to check the module to see what the inputs and outputs are doing. If you need to have this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your door problem and recommend a repair.

Loss of power to driver’s side door, plus grinding sound from front left of car.
ANSWER : Looks like we have two separate issues happening to your Volkswagen Jetta. With such limited information it is difficult to determine where exactly the grinding could be coming from in your Jetta. The questions I would first ask are if this grinding sound happens consistently or does it happen at specific times, such as when applying the brakes or when turning? Grinding sounds can be the result of brakes that have worn out completely. Bad wheel bearings can also make this sound. This is a case where I would highly recommend having a certified mechanic inspect your vehicle for the noise. They will be able to test drive your Jetta, allowing them to listen for the noise. They will also be able to inspect your brakes and suspension systems for possible noise makers, determining exactly what is causing the grinding noise you are hearing on the left side.

In regards to the driver’s door not having power, it would be recommended to have a trained professional use his diagnostics tools and knowledge to diagnose why your door doesn’t have power. Often times there could be problems with the wires there.

Having problems with door locks on 08 Cadillac CTS. Driver side door especially and will not lock or unlock with key. Others loc
ANSWER : This is often related to a malfunctioning door lock actuator, a blown fuse or a faulty power door lock switch. When you use the door lock switch in the car it sends a signal to a relay which then activates an actuator inside the door. The actuator is the final step in the process in that it is a small motor with a set of gears that actually locks and unlocks the latch mechanism inside the door allowing the door to open. When this motor is bad, the latch mechanism will fail to operate and cause the door not to unlock as it is designed to. In the case of a bad door lock relay, the power, normally needed to send the signal from the switch when you activate it to the actuator motor is not there. This means the relay is not allowing the circuit to be completed and the actuator motor is not activated. Any of the above may cause your power door lock switches not to work properly and should be diagnosed by a qualified mechanic. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at the door locks in your vehicle.

Door unlocked alarm, no power window or door lock on driver door only, interior light comes on with L turn signa
ANSWER : Hi there. In general, wiring harnesses are sold by the manufacturer as a whole harness; not individual wires. It is much easier, cost-efficient and safer to replace the entire harness if it’s determined that it is faulty and the source of your alarm / door issue. It would be best to have one of our mobile mechanics come to your location and complete an electrical problems inspection though, as it’s possible that this issue is related to an error code trapped in the ECU. If this is the case, simply clearing the code will resolve the problem. If the issue is determined to be the wiring harness or an exposed wire, they can recommend and most likely complete the repairs as well.

After unlocking the car from the drivers side, if the passenger door is opened before the key is put in the car the alarm goes off.
ANSWER : The key should only unlock the driver door with one turn and unlock all of the doors with two turns. If the passenger door is unlocking when the driver door is turned with one turn or if the alarm is still set if the driver door is turned two times, then the Immobilizer System Module needs replaced if you are intending on not using a key fob or you will need to get a key fob to manually turn off the Immobilizer System Module. If you need further assistance with your doors unlocking unusual, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

all doors lock only by inserting key in passenger side door and locking
ANSWER : Your central locking system may have been designed with a control module in the circuit. This is a small computer that is responsible for controlling the different functions of a particular system. It is possible that the module for your central locking system may have shorted out internally preventing particular functions from working properly. I would recommend having a certified technician test your central locking module to determine if all of its functions are working properly.

Is there grease in the left side front driver side wheel bearing
ANSWER : The wheel bearings on the front of your car are within unitized hub assemblies and thus the grease that is placed within when the hub is manufactured is permanently sealed inside. It will not leak out. If the bearing has failed that is typically due to overtightening of the axle nut when the vehicle is re-assembled during the repair. The nut that holds the CV axle to the hub can ONLY be tightened with a calibrated torque wrench and the nut has to be tightened only to exact value published in the Factory Service Manual. Shops and amateurs will sometimes use an air tool or an ordinary wrench, contrary to the explicit instructions, and the consequence is the axle nut is overtightened and the bearing is guaranteed to fail prematurely. The other common cause of premature bearing failure is the use of cheap aftermarket bearings (or hub assemblies). If you use the OEM (dealer supplied) bearing or a recognizable, reputable vendor such as SKF you will be better off. The grease you are seeing is from another source and that is likely to be the CV outer joint. You can check to see if the outer CV boot is torn or damaged. If so, the grease has come out and CV joint failure is not far off. To get the bearing inspected, and replaced if failed, please request hub assembly inspection/replacement. To obtain service on the CV joint, please request CV joint inspection/axle replacement. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Grinding sound in front driver’s side over bumps.
ANSWER : It sounds like you have a failed strut. I would have the front strut and sway bar checked to see if they are bad. If you have a bad strut then I suggest replacing both front struts at the same time. If you’d like to have this looked at, consider enlisting a qualified technician who can diagnose the noise you’re hearing when you go over bumps and perform the necessary repairs to your vehicle