Leaking issue

ANSWER : If the oil filter housing is integral to the oil cooler, or the housing had to be removed to service the cooler, a professional mechanic with knowledge of the limited service life of rubber seals would have absolutely (guaranteed) replaced the filter housing gasket that you are now belatedly finding leaks. However, if the leaking gasket is in an assembly that was not touched, or is not part of the cooler, they might be on reasonable grounds to have not fooled with it. These cooler configurations vary (from Mercedes Benz model to model) so, having the advice I just gave, you can just simply ask them what configuration you have and go from there. The bottom line is, if indeed, the gasket that is presently leaking was "right in front of them" while they did the warranty work, it should have been replaced simply as a matter of course. Indeed, the weak link on modern engines has become gaskets and seals. The engine will mechanically far outlast the gasket and seals but the problem is to replace all of them (once they all leak) you have to literally take the engine out of the car and take it apart just to put all new seals in. Please let us know how we can help further on this issue.

ANSWER : Stop leak products are generally an amateur, unprofessional solution to a TECHNICAL problem. Factory Service Manuals do NOT recommend or specify stop leak products BECAUSE such products are NOT considered to be an acceptable repair strategy, save for rare exceptions. The composition of your question clearly indicates that you understand that the OPTIMAL solution is to just fix the gasket(s) and you are simply seeking a stop gap (no pun intended) measure while you prepare for that repair. After having researched these products for decades and having tried a few, talked to manufacturers and so forth, I would suggest that you just let the vehicle leak until it was repaired assuming of course that oil is NOT leaking onto a hot manifold thus creating fire and health hazards. Of course, it is best to just simply prioritize the repair and one possibility insofar as the cost, as well as the diagnosis, is to get a second opinion from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi Ricardo. We answered your question earlier. However, if you didn’t receive the reply, here is what we stated earlier. In most cases, an EVAP leak will create an OBD-II trouble code. The best way to detect an EVAP leak is by having a professional mobile mechanic complete a check engine light inspection, they will be able to download the code and determine the source of the leak. That’s the best advice we can offer you. Thanks.

ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. The leaks will not cause any damage to the vehicle it self, however, the part that it’s leaking from will eventually begin to loose lubrication and come apart. The transmission oil leak will cause the transmission to stop shifting when the fluid becomes too low, the strut and shocks leaking will cause the ride to become more bouncy and will not keep the tires on the road while driving as the fluid is dispersing out. I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you diagnose your fluid leaks.

Billing question is sent to CS for the cost of repairing a pressure sensor, transmission fluid leak from the rear output shaft seal, the left front strut leak and a right rear shock leak.

ANSWER : The fuel filter and power steering system are in two completely different parts of your car.

The power steering pump, rack and lines are located in the engine compartment and the fuel filter is located on the cross member near the rear of the vehicle. So, if the leak is under the engine compartment, you can rule out the fuel filter. The leak will be coming from the fuel line, regulator or injectors – all of which are in the engine compartment – but not the fuel filter. Power steering fluid is typically clear or light brown in cooler; almost the same color as engine oil.

I suggest you have a professional inspect your power steering fluid leak firsthand to determine where the leaks are coming from. The team at YourMechanic is an excellent option since we make house calls

ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that any mechanic would do is determine where the oil leak is coming from before quoting you a maximum price estimate. In general, most oil leaks are caused by front crankshaft seals that become worn out, especially on vehicles that are nearly 20 years old. This type of replacement could cost up to $800 to $1,200 depending on what else might be damaged. You might want to have a professional mechanic come to your location to complete a car is leaking oil inspection, so they can pinpoint the source and recommend repairs.

ANSWER : First off, I would say it would be best to pressure test the cooling system to verify where the coolant is coming from. With the complexity of repairs to the cooling system on this vehicle, it may be worth the time spent to pressure test the system before tackling the replacement. Now then, as far as replacing the o-ring seal on the water pump inlet tube, it should really only require the removal of the bypass hose, lower radiator hose, and the two (or three, depending on manufacturing changes) mounting bolts that hold the inlet tube to the block. I personally would go ahead and replace the tube while I was there, instead of just the o-ring. Granted, this doesn’t mention what it will take to get down to the inlet pipe, but this is all it should take once you have access to it. If this is something that you feel you could use a hand with, consult with a certified mechanic, like those available at YourMechanic.com.

ANSWER : Hi there. It’s quite possible that this is a rear oil seal or oil pan gasket that is leaking; or perhaps a transmission oil tube seal that is leaking. The problem with trying to diagnose an oil leak is that typically the oil tends to spray onto different components underneath the vehicle. You might want to have a professional mechanic complete an oil leak inspection to help you locate the source of the leak and recommend the right repairs.