I have a 1993 Mitsubishi Mirage. Starter went out and I bought another one an it’s still grinding on the flywheel.
My starter went out in my car about a month ago and i bought another one from auto zone it was put in an still made the grinding sound . So i was instructed to get another one as i did it was put in an its still grinding not really bad its only a little grinding but still. The flywheel looks fine. What else can be the problem for my starter not engaging or disengaging
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. The start will need to have shims put in between the starter and the engine block. This will make the start pinion gear line up with the teeth on the flywheel. The pinion gear on the starter is not lining up with the flywheel teeth for the start is too close to the engine block. If you need further assistance with your starter grinding, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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The most common reasons a Mitsubishi Mirage won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
Causes include the starter not lining up correctly with the ring gear on the flywheel, missing or damaged gear teeth, or a faulty solenoid. Replacing the starter is most often the right solution. However, if there is damage to the ring gear on the flywheel, the ring gear will need to be replaced.
Starters are bolted to the engine block or the transmission case.
The starter is under the front of the car just below the oil filter. There`s a little skid plate held on with 2 or 3 10mm bolts.
A dead battery is the most common reason why engines fail to start up. A common reason for batteries to fail is drain. Your car`s battery typically expends a small portion of its storage to start your car up, and then recharges from your alternator as you move.
When your engine cranks but won`t start or run, it could mean your engine is having trouble producing a spark, getting fuel, or creating compression. The most common causes are problems in the ignition (for example, a bad ignition coil) or fuel system (for example, a clogged fuel filter).
Remove the starter from the vehicle and energize it with jumper cables to determine if the starter drive is properly moving the pinion gear into the cranking position. If the starter engages and cranks the engine, then skips and spins freely, there are two likely causes: Misalignment of the replacement starter.
Flywheels play an important part in the starter process of a vehicle. When you turn on your engine, the starter motor pushes a gear towards the flywheel. This gear meshes with the flywheel`s teeth to make the engine turn over.
Mitsubishi Electric Diamond Gard Starters and Alternators | PartsCap by Daimler Truck North America.
The fuse box (also called the power box), the instrument panel under the fuse panel, or the right fender are all possible locations. In most cars, it will be under the hood, in a large box with a black lid.
Connect the remote starter switch to the battery positive and the solenoid (smaller wire) terminal on the starter and click the switch. If nothing happens, you`ve got a bad starter. If the starter turns, the problem is in the electrical system.
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CAUSES OF FAULTY STARTERS: CAUSE OF FAILURE
Electrical connections faulty. Solenoid switch (engaging relay) stiff or faulty. Electric motor damaged electrically. Single-pinion gear, starter pinion or freewheel damaged.
Hard start symptoms and starter failure may NOT be caused by the starter, but could actually be caused by the crankshaft position sensor. If your vehicle is experiencing one or more of these symptoms, the crankshaft sensor may be at fault.
One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.
The starter solenoid is an electromagnetic switch that engages the starter motor. How can I tell if my starter solenoid is bad? If you`re having trouble cranking the engine over but the battery is charged, or if your starter won`t disengage after starting the engine, it`s likely a starter solenoid issue.
The usual cause for this is a sticking ignition switch or relay sending a constant feed to the starter motor. This must be resolved before running the vehicle, as it will cause permanent damage and, ultimately, failure of the starter motor.
Typically, a new starter will make noise when it`s positioned too close to the ring gear on the flexplate or flywheel. Installing thin, steel shims between the block and starter is the method to eliminate the noise. Another problem that may cause starter noise is an out-of-round flexplate.
Incorrectly wiring a starter will have a huge impact on how well it performs. “Bigger displacement requires you to rethink things, just like with fuel delivery, valvetrain parts, and so on. The starter got bigger and the output grew, so the wire must get bigger too.
Mitsubishi OEM parts are parts engineered and manufactured by Mitsubishi Motors. These parts are engineered to meet and exceed the performance specifications of your Mitsubishi vehicle, whether it be an Outlander, Eclipse Cross, or Mirage, to name a few of Mitsubishi`s vehicles.
Car starters can often look very similar. The problem is there may be small differences that cannot be caught by the eye – the mounting may be different, the gear teeth might not match and will chew up your flywheel, etc. You would be better off installing one known to fit that vehicle and engine.
So can a bad starter drain your battery? The short answer is: Yes, it can. It could also drain the battery even faster if you repeatedly try to start your car with a faulty starter. A faulty starter is also one of the leading causes of battery overcharging.
If your vehicle won`t start, it`s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter. It can be hard to determine if you`re dealing with a battery or an alternator problem.
All circuits, except the main supply from the battery to the starter motor and electrically driven steering motors, should be provided with electrical protection against overload and short circuit, (i.e. fuses or circuit breakers should be installed).
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a 1993 Mitsubishi Mirage. Starter went out and I bought another one an it’s still grinding on the flywheel.
ANSWER : Hi there. The start will need to have shims put in between the starter and the engine block. This will make the start pinion gear line up with the teeth on the flywheel. The pinion gear on the starter is not lining up with the flywheel teeth for the start is too close to the engine block. If you need further assistance with your starter grinding, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
no crank with new starter, starter relay, battery, alternater.
ANSWER : If you tried jumping the contacts on the starter directly, then your problem is most likely a power or ground issue. The battery ground cable may not be making a good connection at the engine ground, or there could be a problem in the positive or negative battery cables making them unable to properly complete the circuit. I would start by checking the resistance from the engine ground to the battery ground, and from starter positive to the battery positive terminal. Also do a voltage drop test across each of the cables, which will help determine if there is a problem with them. If after checking the cables and connections, the car still doesn’t start, then you should have a qualified professional, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose the problem for you.
I changed out my starter but now I think it’s not disengaging took it off went to test it they say it does disengage what else c
ANSWER : It sounds like you have three issues: a possibly faulty battery, a no start condition, and noise on starter engagement. The condition of the battery can be verified through a load test. If the battery checks out OK, once you get the vehicle running, be sure to check the charging circuit output at the battery posts so you can assure yourself that the battery is being properly re-charged when the car is running. Starter grinding noise is due to either an internal failure in the starter or improper alignment of the starter on the transmission bell housing. Sometimes starters have to be shimmed. If the alignment of the starter is OK, and there are no faults with the starter ring gear on the flex plate, typically the starter is replaced if there is grinding noise.
As far as the present no start condition, re-check that after you are sure the battery is fully charged. With a fully charged battery, if the starter motor does not run that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit or a problem with the starter motor itself. If there is power to the starter motor and yet it doesn’t run, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter, or there is a big voltage drop anywhere on the circuit to the starter, then the circuit has to be traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.
car cuts off after 2 seconds of running but my radio will still be on.
ANSWER : Hello. Likely it is a faulty immobilizer ECU causing the trouble. To help determine this you could call the dealership and ask them for the immobilizer bypass code for your vehicle. If the code is entered and the vehicle stays running then it is more likely your immobilizer ECU at fault.
Other than an immobilizer unit the trouble could be caused by a faulty ignition switch or ignition relay. The Ignition switch and relay are critical components for sending the signal to turn the vehicle on and off. Your vehicle is presenting signs of a security lock out. Common causes of security lockouts with Honda and Acura are a bad battery or poor connections leading to the battery. I suggest that a technician test the ignition switch key reader, ignition relay, the battery, and its related connections.
Other than an immobilizer unit the trouble could be caused by a faulty ignition switch or ignition relay. The Ignition switch and relay are critical components for sending the signal to turn the vehicle on and off. Your vehicle is presenting signs of a security lock out. Common causes of security lockouts with Honda and Acura are a bad battery or poor connections leading to the battery. I suggest that a technician test the ignition switch key reader, ignition relay, the battery, and its related connections.
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I went to change the passenger side axle of my 2003 L300 3.0 and got the axle to find out the one in the car was not the same at
ANSWER : If you are not the original owner of the vehicle, it’s possible an engine or transmission swap was performed before you purchased the vehicle. Whether this is the case or not, have your parts source check listings for a couple of years before and after 2003 models to see if there is a difference. If for some reason that doesn’t work out, then you may have to rebuild the existing one. If your parts source cannot find the correct axle, ask them if they know of any local driveshaft rebuilders. I just tried a search for "driveshaft rebuilders" and a couple popped up in my area as well as several in other cities around the country.
I have a 96 Ford explorer. I went get some food one night and wen I was going to turn my truck off the ignition does a 360 so I ca
ANSWER : Hi there. Once you start your Ford Explorer, the job of the battery is pretty much done; as the engine and all accessories are powered by the alternator after the car is running. This is why the battery being disconnected didn’t shut off the Explorer. It is highly probable that the ignition relay is faulty or stuck open. The best way to resolve this problem however is to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location to complete a detailed ignition system inspection on your Ford.
Grinding noise when starting engine.
ANSWER : Hi there:
Improper alignment or installation of the starter can cause this grinding noise to occur. However, it’s also possible that internal components inside the starter, the starter relay or the flywheel teeth could also be the source. It’s really difficult to diagnose a noise without physically being there to inspect the vehicle on site, so you should have a mobile mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection, so they can pinpoint the issue and recommend the right repairs.
Car is making grinding noise
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a faulty starter solenoid that may be dragging a bit too long against the flywheel after the motor fires. This will cause the starter gear to engage the flywheel once the motor is running at a much faster pace than what the starter gear is turning at. The result is a grinding sound causing the starter gear to drag against the flywheel, eventually burning up the starter motor. I would suggest double checking the power to the solenoid to be sure it retracts when the key is moved form the start position back to the run position. If you need further help with this, please reach out to us here at YourMechanic as we are always here to help.
It sounds like you may have a faulty starter solenoid that may be dragging a bit too long against the flywheel after the motor fires. This will cause the starter gear to engage the flywheel once the motor is running at a much faster pace than what the starter gear is turning at. The result is a grinding sound causing the starter gear to drag against the flywheel, eventually burning up the starter motor. I would suggest double checking the power to the solenoid to be sure it retracts when the key is moved form the start position back to the run position. If you need further help with this, please reach out to us here at YourMechanic as we are always here to help.
