I am getting a code for a misfire on cylinder 2
At idle or when no boost is being supplied to the motor, the air/fuel ratio does not need to be as aggressive in order to maintain the proper supply of air and fuel to the motor. When more is demanded of the motor as you accelerate and the supercharger begins to produce additional boost, much more fuel and ignition timing is needed in order for this to happen effectively. When one or the other does not happen (i.e., too much ignition timing without the proper load of fuel), you will experience a misfire.
I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to determine why the engine is misfiring and suggest the needed repairs.
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The majority of the time, a misfire is caused by a faulty spark plug or another problem with the spark system, but it may also be due to: A fuel delivery problem. A mechanical engine failure. Exhaust gas recirculating.
If your engine is misfiring, you may be able to fix the problem easily by replacing your spark plugs. Spark plugs are relatively easy to remove from engines and inspect for damage, and at less than $25 a piece, they are relatively cheap to replace, too.
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The computer should be scanned to see if you are running lean from bad O2 sensors or for some other reason. The coil may also be weak and not putting out enough spark energy. Have the system checked by a mechanic since this truck engine may have exhaust problems, engine carbon build up, cracked valve seats, O2 sensor problems, coil problems, camshaft and distributor cam gear worn problems. The list goes on and will require a qualified mechanic time to diagnose this complaint for you. If a shop or mechanic cannot figure it out then it may take a factory trained mechanic to be able to diagnose the problem down to one of the listed issues. The best thing to recommend is to replace all the tune up items first so these can be eliminated. This means coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter and air filter, and PCV valve.
Once you determine which sensor is not registering, visually inspect the wiring harnesses and, if everything looks good, replace the sensor. In most cases, the sensor is the problem. If you suspect a wiring problem that isn’t visually apparent, you will need to do a continuity test from the PCM to the sensor connector.
If you determine that all the speed sensors are good, you should suspect a problem with ABS pump. The C0267 trouble code indicates there is a wiring problem in the harness to the ABS pump. It is possible that this is the main problem. To test this, you should disconnect the connector from the ABS pump and visually inspect the pins on both ends. A continuity test should be performed in this harness as well.
There are more test procedures for this that are a bit involved. If you are interested in digging more into this, you should pick up a factory repair manual, not a Chilton. The factory repair manuals are superior and you definitely want good information to make a correct diagnosis of your car.
If you need help with this, I recommend an "ABS light is on" inspection.
Defective camshaft phasers are a common problem and will cause the variable valve timing to be off just enough to cause rough idling or misfiring. I would fix the camshaft phasers first, and if symptoms still occur, I’d recommend replacing the timing chain (you will need to remove the timing cover to do so).
If you’d like help with either of these tasks, consider YourMechanic and a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair these issues for you.
Clean the injectors by using a professional cleaning machine. Afterwards, clear the codes and use fuel tank injector cleaner to help keep the injectors clean. If you need some assistance with this, contact a certified technician who will be able to diagnose your Check Engine Light firsthand and perform the necessary repairs to your car.