How do I check the coolant?

ANSWER : Hi there. For the coolant light to go out, you would need to have the coolant between the low line and the full line for the light to go out. If the coolant is low and keeps on being low, then look for any signs of coolant leaks. You may have to use a coolant pressure tester to pressurize the reservoir to allow the leak to be found.

If you need further assistance with the coolant being low and the warning light being on, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. The milky engine oil is caused when the coolant from the cooling system gets into the engine oil. There are two ways that the coolant can mix with the oil on your vehicle. The first way is through the intake manifold as the gasket may crack causing the coolant to drain into the valley area making the coolant mix with the engine oil. However, the engine will not overheat quickly when this happens. The second way for the coolant to mix with the engine oil is through a burned head gasket. To verify that the head gasket is burned, get a block tester from your local parts store and set up the tool by putting the blue chemical in the tube and putting on the plunger on the end. Then remove the reservoir cap or radiator cap (take precautions of the coolant) and start the engine. Take the tool and place it over the inlet area to the reservoir or radiator. When steam starts to form in the area, use the plunger and suck in the steam into the tool. If there is any hydro carbons (raw unburnt fuel) in the cooling system, then the blue chemical will turn to a yellow or greenish color. If the color changes, the head gasket is burned and needs replaced. If the chemical does not change color, then the head gasket is good and there could be a leak on the intake gasket. I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you diagnose your engine overheating issue.

ANSWER : Hey there:

It’s common for many mechanics to make the mistake of mis-diagnosing the cause of an overheating situation; especially when they assume it’s a thermostat issue. The problem could be caused by a blockage in the coolant tubes running from the radiator to the overflow tank and back to the radiator. However, it also may be due to air trapped in the coolant lines. I think a good idea would be to contact a different ASE certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, and have them complete a coolant flush, which should remove any blockages in the coolant tubes and may solve your problem.

ANSWER : Hi. Unless you are having to repeatedly refill the coolant system – which indicates a different problem, the false "low coolant" issue may simply be a failed sensor in the coolant recovery tank. It is not recognizing that there is adequate fluid in the tank. The scenario you describe where the car will not start after being driven, then parked suggests a "heat-soak" issue for an electrical component (crank/cam position sensor, starter solenoid, neutral safety switch, etc.). If you would like to have this looked at, a certified technician from YourMechanic can diagnose the starting issue and follow through with repairs.

ANSWER : Going by your description and the age of the car, I’m going to guess you have a problem with your water pump. The water pump has a rotating seal that often doesn’t leak unless the engine is running. If your water pump is leaking you might be able to see a drip from the bottom of the engine front cover. Before jumping to any conclusions though, you should have a professional pressure test the system to be sure. If you contact Your Mechanic. they can send a technician to your home or office to check out your leak and tell you what it will take to solve it.

ANSWER : Check the transmission fluid. If all testing eliminates the head gasket, cracked cylinder head, etc, it may be a cracked radiator.Transmission fluid is sent forward to the radiator to be cooled. Ir runs into what is typically called the "side tanks" of the radiator. So the transmission fluid and coolant are both flowing through the radiator and kept apart just as the engine oil and coolant are kept apart in the engine by the head gasket, coolant and oil passages, etc. If the tank in the radiator is cracked internally, transmission fluid may actually be forced into the coolant as transmission fluid is under higher pressure than the coolant. Short of a cracked head gasket, cylinder head, or engine block, it’s really the only other source of any type of oil getting into the coolant unless the vehicle is equipped with an engine oil cooler as well.

ANSWER : If it was leaking "antifreeze" or "coolant" on the freeway, that signifies a cooling system leak although it is also possible that your car is overheating (due to a cooling system problem like a stuck thermostat or an engine issue) and the overheating simply caused the pressure relief valve in the radiator cap to open expelling steam and liquid coolant. It’s hard to say which is occurring without looking at the car directly. Consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the Check Engine Light and other symptoms.

The fault with the battery is possibly a coincidence and the electrical issue will have to be dealt with as well. It’s not unusual for older cars to have multiple problems but the problems are not directly related; they are merely coincidental.

ANSWER : Hi there. Quite frequently when red and green coolant is mixed and inside the coolant tubes for a long time, it can cause excessive wear of the coolant tubes. The ’glitter’ you see may be excessive debris that may have worn off the coolant hoses. Whether or not you can continue to run with this coolant; it shouldn’t be a problem. However, I would recommend that the next time you flush your coolant, that you also replace the coolant hoses and tubes.