Hi peter, I recently was in a minor car accident where my light bar was pushed into my condenser on my f-350 after being at the bo

I recently was in a minor car accident where my light bar was pushed into my condenser on my f-350 causing the ac to no longer work. The truck was dropped off at the shop recommended by the insurance company and after I picked it up the ac is still not working they have replaced the condeser so I am not sure what is causing the problem

My car has 62000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
I would have thought that they would have tested the A/C prior to releasing the vehicle. If there were no problems with the A/C before the accident, and the only thing you needed was a condenser, that’s a straightforward repair and so obviously it is surprising it doesn’t work. Given how chaotic some of these shops are (vehicles have been know to leave "quick change" oil facilities with no oil or no filter obviously resulting in disastrous consequences), my first suspicion is that maybe they forgot to evacuate and recharge the system after the condenser was replaced? The first thing to do would be to use gauges and check and see if the system is even charged and if you can get any high or low side pressures by commanding the compressor on. If the system does happen to be charged, the usual diagnostic decision tree would be employed to figure out why it is not turning on. To request that diagnostic, please use YourMechanic’s a/c diagnostic service/repair page and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The most common reasons a Ford F-350 Super Duty ac isn`t working are a refrigerant leak, an electrical climate control issue, or a problem with the air conditioning compressor. You may not realize there`s a refrigerant leak until the air conditioner stops blowing cold.
Why do I get hot air from my F-350 Super Duty A/C? If your car`s air conditioning isn`t blowing cold air at all (or it tries, then turns warm), you could have a clogged expansion valve, a faulty compressor clutch, a leak, or a malfunctioning fuse in the system.
We do not recommend you try and replace the condenser yourself unless you`re an experienced DIY-er or have HVAC expertise. Typically, a complex repair like this one is better handled by a professional.
A condenser (or AC condenser) is the outdoor portion of an air conditioner or heat pump that either releases or collects heat, depending on the time of the year. Both split air conditioner and heat pump condensers are made of the same basic parts.
Your vehicle`s air-conditioning not working is likely caused by a failing compressor or a freon leak. While these are the most obvious reasons for your air-conditioning not working inside your vehicle, it might be anything as simple as a bad belt or a dirty cabin air filter.
Common Reasons AC Doesn`t Run Cold

The most common causes of broken air conditioning leaks or compression issues. If you are feeling cool — but not cold — air, the issue could be a clogged filter, a problem with the cooling fan, signs of radiator trouble, or it could simply mean it`s time to recharge your AC.

Yes, you can replace only your air conditioner`s condenser unit. However, you may save money by replacing the entire air conditioner if the system is more than a decade old.
How long do AC condensers last? An AC condenser installed by experienced professionals and receives regular maintenance checkups should last as long as the air conditioning system itself. Depending on the model, this can be anywhere between 10 to 20 years.
A/C condenser problems

If a condenser is damaged, the refrigerant leaks out and the air conditioning system stops working. A damaged A/C condenser cannot be repaired and must be replaced.

Your vehicle`s AC not working is most likely caused by a freon leak or a failing compressor. While these are the simple to spot reasons for the air-conditioning not working inside your car, it could also be anything as simple as a dirty cabin filter or a bad belt.
Common Reasons AC Doesn`t Run Cold

The most common causes of broken air conditioning leaks or compression issues. If you are feeling cool — but not cold — air, the issue could be a clogged filter, a problem with the cooling fan, signs of radiator trouble, or it could simply mean it`s time to recharge your AC.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Hi peter, I recently was in a minor car accident where my light bar was pushed into my condenser on my f-350 after being at the bo
ANSWER : I would have thought that they would have tested the A/C prior to releasing the vehicle. If there were no problems with the A/C before the accident, and the only thing you needed was a condenser, that’s a straightforward repair and so obviously it is surprising it doesn’t work. Given how chaotic some of these shops are (vehicles have been know to leave "quick change" oil facilities with no oil or no filter obviously resulting in disastrous consequences), my first suspicion is that maybe they forgot to evacuate and recharge the system after the condenser was replaced? The first thing to do would be to use gauges and check and see if the system is even charged and if you can get any high or low side pressures by commanding the compressor on. If the system does happen to be charged, the usual diagnostic decision tree would be employed to figure out why it is not turning on. To request that diagnostic, please use YourMechanic’s a/c diagnostic service/repair page and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Car won’t start. The check engine light, battery light, and oil change light are coming on. I tried jumping the car and nothing happened. Why won’t my car start?
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If sometimes your vehicle will start with the new alternator and sometimes it won’t, then there is a loose connection in your charging system. Check all of the wires to the alternator and to the battery. Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure that the wires to the starter are clean and tight. A loose ground to the ignition system will cause the vehicle to not crank over. Check all of the ground wires from the battery to the starter. Make sure that they are clean and tight. If you need further assistance troubleshooting your no start situation, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you.

My car stalls at times, yesterday the car shut off at a red light. I turned car off then back on now engine light is on.
ANSWER : This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and replace your idle air control valve.

Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

2012 equinox reduced power light engine light and traction light came on. Lost a lot of power got home and all light except engine
ANSWER : Your car has what is called a "safe mode" that will be engaged by the computer when it detects that something critical has gone wrong related to any of the major components in your engine chassis or power train. This may be related to a number of things, most of which should have been registered in the computer when the check engine light came on. I recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to inspect your check engine light and diagnose any codes registered by your vehicle’s computer.

No dash lights, back right tail light is out, no parking lights. Brake lights work though as does head lights.
ANSWER : Hi there. In many cases, when you have electrical problems like you’re describing, it’s caused by multiple electrical component failure. It’s likely that a few electrical relays are not working; especially if you have systems that utilize the same components (such as your brake light and tail lights). I would recommend having a professional mobile mechanic come to your location to complete an electrical problems inspection first, so they can pinpoint what is damaged and recommend the right repairs.

Low coolant light comes on when AC, defrost or heater is on, but only if the car is in gear and stopped, what’s wrong with my car?
ANSWER : First, you want to make sure your cooling system is full. Check the radiator not the coolant jug. And check it when it is cold. If it needs coolant, add some. Of course, I don’t feel this problem is an actual low coolant condition. I would expect to find an electrical failure in the instrument cluster or from a component or wiring harness that is connected to the instrument cluster.

As a technician, I have access to reports from technicians across the country. I could not find any reports of this problem, so diagnosing this will require an experienced tech as this is not a common problem. In addition, this happens at intermittent times making it difficult to recreate. The most challenging part of this diagnosis will be recreating the symptom. I suspect it has something to do with the brake switch circuitry because it only seems to happen when you have your foot on the brake. I would begin my diagnosis there with a wiring diagram and test light in hand. The brake switch, instrument cluster, and environmental controls all interact with each other. Something is crossed either because of a failed module or damaged wiring in a harness.

Aside from making sure the coolant is full, this will not likely leave you on the side of the road. If you take it in to be diagnosed, be prepared for them to spend more time than usual to figure it out. Since it isn’t a key problem, you may need to live with it until it completely fails making it much easier to diagnose. Either way, I do recommend having a certified mechanic diagnose the warning light to make sure there isn’t anything serious going on.

Good luck.

Abs light, emergency brake light, steering wheel assist light, engine light, EPC light, traction control light
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle does utilize a lot of the same sensors for these systems. Are there any other codes that are coming up when this code appears? If so you will want to take these into consideration when processing the repair and making a diagnosis. The module may be bad, and replacing it should fix the problem. The lights should turn off once the main computer recognizes the new module and the sensors sync up. If you believe the sensors need to be cleaned you may do so. Do as minimal as possible to make sure you are not damaging the sensor or disrupting the wiring inside. A bad connection would make the lights stay on. With so many lights that are effected by the module being illuminated, the module is likely bad or does not have a connection. Check the connection first and then resort to replacing the unit. For more help with these electrical tests, contact our service department.