Got 40 lbs fuel pressure got spark no injector e

Cranks wont start got 40 lbs fuel pressure got spark but no injector pulse

My car has 140000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
If you have spark and fuel pressure but no injector pulse, it is most likely the crank sensor, the crank sensor connector or another wiring problem in the crank sensor circuit. The best method to check the crank sensor is with a scanner. You will find a crank sensor signal in the data list. There will be a cranks sensor PID or you an simply look at the RPM (revolutions per minute) PID. If it shows RPM’s, the crank sensor is working. If you can’t confirm a crank sensor pulse, you will need to disconnect the crank sensor connector and check the resistance of the cranks sensor with a multimeter. The resistance should be 800-1200 ohms. If you don’t have a crank sensor pulse at the scanner and the crank sensor is within the specified resistance specifications, there will most likely be a bad connection somewhere in the crank sensor wiring harness.

Testing the wiring harness is done by checking for continuity from the PCM (powertrain control module) to the crank sensor connector. If all this tests good, you may have a failed PCM. Looking at the wiring diagram for your Aurora, there are two crank sensors on your motor. They are located on the block toward the front of the car, the left side of the motor between cylinders 4 & 6. There will either be two separate sensors or the two sensors will be integrated together with four wires.

Also, the fuel pressure specification for you car is 46-59 PSI. So 40 PSI is a little bit low. I would make sure you have an accurate gauge and cycle the key a few times to be sure fuel pressure has built up sufficiently.

If you should require further assistance with this, I recommend the following inspection to help you out; Car is not starting inspection which is performed by a certified technician from YourMechanic at your home or place of business.

Good luck!

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

Bad Spark Plugs

If the engine holds compression well, and the fuel system is working correctly, but it still won`t start, that tells us that your car`s spark plugs may not be working. The spark plugs ignite the air/fuel mixture inside the engine`s cylinders. It`s the resulting explosion that actually powers your car.

Vehicle Won`t Start or Struggles When Starting

If the fuel injector is not delivering enough fuel to the engine system, this can cause the car to struggle when trying to turn over or not turn over at all (just cranks with no result). This can also cause the engine to stall due to the air-fuel ratio not being correct.

Low fuel pressure can also cause hard starting or a no start. Fuel injectors are designed to operate within a specific pressure range. Low fuel pressure can also be caused by a leaky fuel pressure regulator.
A Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and rotational speeds of the crankshaft. Without the crank sensor, the engine control module (ECM) wouldn`t know when to fire the fuel injectors and ignite the spark plugs.

The air/fuel mixture is ignited by a spark from the spark plug. Although gasoline is the most common transportation fuel, there are alternative fuel options that use similar components and engine systems.
This usually means the battery is bad and incapable of handling a huge request for power to crank the engine over. Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then as soon as you let go of the key, the headlights QUICKLY bounce back to white and bright.
Low fuel pressure can lead to engine misfires, low acceleration, rough idles, and engine stalls. If your check engine light is on and your car has been stalling out, you may have a fuel pump failure.
If the fuel rail sensor is bad, then the correct fuel pressure may not be achieved, resulting in the absence of sufficient fuel required for starting up. You may find that the engine cranks and maybe even fire up a couple of times before immediately dying.
Fundamentally, the engine ECU controls the injection of the fuel and, in petrol engines, the timing of the spark to ignite it. It determines the position of the engine`s internals using a Crankshaft Position Sensor so that the injectors and ignition system are activated at precisely the correct time.
The PCM uses the signal from the crankshaft position sensor to determine when and in which cylinder to fire the spark. The signal from the crankshaft position is also utilized to check for misfires in the cylinders. There will be no spark and the fuel injectors will not operate if the sensor signal is missing.
If the ignition relay shorts, burns out, or otherwise fails while the engine is operating it will cut off power to the fuel pump and ignition system. This will cause the vehicle to immediately stall due to fuel and spark being cut off.
Some other typical reasons engines fail to start include:

Low or discharged battery. Corroded or loose battery cables. Starter motor relay failure. Ignition switch failure.

Dead car battery: A dead battery is the most common reason why a car won`t start. If you have a battery tester, check your battery to see if it`s weak. If you don`t have one, try to jump start your car with jumper cables.
Your engine may not start if an ignition coil isn`t firing up a spark plug. It could be a faulty coil, a poor connection to the ignition coil, or a control module that`s causing the problem.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Got 40 lbs fuel pressure got spark no injector e
ANSWER : If you have spark and fuel pressure but no injector pulse, it is most likely the crank sensor, the crank sensor connector or another wiring problem in the crank sensor circuit. The best method to check the crank sensor is with a scanner. You will find a crank sensor signal in the data list. There will be a cranks sensor PID or you an simply look at the RPM (revolutions per minute) PID. If it shows RPM’s, the crank sensor is working. If you can’t confirm a crank sensor pulse, you will need to disconnect the crank sensor connector and check the resistance of the cranks sensor with a multimeter. The resistance should be 800-1200 ohms. If you don’t have a crank sensor pulse at the scanner and the crank sensor is within the specified resistance specifications, there will most likely be a bad connection somewhere in the crank sensor wiring harness.

Testing the wiring harness is done by checking for continuity from the PCM (powertrain control module) to the crank sensor connector. If all this tests good, you may have a failed PCM. Looking at the wiring diagram for your Aurora, there are two crank sensors on your motor. They are located on the block toward the front of the car, the left side of the motor between cylinders 4 & 6. There will either be two separate sensors or the two sensors will be integrated together with four wires.

Also, the fuel pressure specification for you car is 46-59 PSI. So 40 PSI is a little bit low. I would make sure you have an accurate gauge and cycle the key a few times to be sure fuel pressure has built up sufficiently.

If you should require further assistance with this, I recommend the following inspection to help you out; Car is not starting inspection which is performed by a certified technician from YourMechanic at your home or place of business.

Good luck!

Turn ignition on fuel pressure goes to 60 lbs two seconds and fuel pump relay clicks pressure drops 5 lbs then slowly drops to 0to
ANSWER : It sounds like this fault may have more going on than just the fuel delivery issue. The vehicles ECU will command the fuel pump to turn on normally when a vehicle is started. If the car only primes for the second when the key is turned, then for some reason the ECU may be pulling the fuel.

This can happen due to a failure with various sensors or ignition component, such as the oil sender, ignition switch, ECT sensor, or various other failed sensors. If the car has codes stored in the ECU it may lead to more information as to what is going on. A qualified technician will be able to diagnose this fault no start fault and perform any repairs required.

How long and what is the process to replace a fuel pressure sensor?
ANSWER : A professional mechanic would require roughly 5 hours. (If just the regulator is replaced that takes about 1 hour). Some parts, as noted below, cannot be re-used, you need a precision inch pound torque wrench, FSM instructions (and TSB updates if applicable; procedure was changed in 2007 for instance) and the system has to be bled when done.

Below is partial list of steps, copied and pasted directly from the service manual:

1. Disconnect battery and put protective material in front of the charge air cooler (CAC) or damage to the CAC may occur.

2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

3. Disconnect the oil drain tube from the crankcase vent oil separator.

4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet tube clamp and detach the air cleaner outlet tube from the turbocharger.

5. Remove the bolts, the crankcase vent oil separator and the air cleaner outlet pipe as an assembly.

6. Remove and discard the crankcase vent oil separator press-in-place gasket. (To re-install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

7. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector (BE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED FIRST!) and retainer. Disconnect the in-line electrical connector and position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

8. Remove the pushnuts and the glow plug module heat shield.

9. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel injection pump electrical connector and detach the retainer from the glow plug module bracket. Disconnect the glow plug module and the exhaust gas recirculation temperature (EGRT) sensor electrical connectors, detach the wiring retainer and position the wiring harnesses aside.

10. Remove the nut and position the ground strap aside. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

11. Remove the engine wiring harness bolt. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

12. Remove the heater supply tube nut. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

13. Remove the bolts and the glow plug module bracket. To install, tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

14. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator tube aside. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Warning: Do NOT disconnect the glow plug electrical connector before dislodging the seal from the valve cover or the wiring harness may be damaged.

15. Using an appropriate tool, dislodge the glow plug wiring harness seals from the valve cover.

16. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connectors by pulling on the glow plug wiring harness tee above the seal. Remove the glow plug wiring harness.

17. Remove the nut and position the crankcase ventilation drain tube aside.

18. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the valve cover stud.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the generator bracket.

20. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch electrical connector. Position the harness aside.

Warning: Do not bend or flex the heater supply tube or damage to the tube may occur.

21. Remove the stud bolts, bolts and the valve cover. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Warning: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock.

Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies HIGH VOLTAGE to operate the fuel injectors of course, you disconnected the battery though.

22. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor electrical connector.

Warning: Fuel injection equipment is manufactured to VERY precise tolerances and fine clearances (think space shuttle). To prevent fuel system damage, it is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed when working with these components. Always install fuel system caps on any open orifices or tubes.

23. Remove the FRP sensor. To install, tighten the FRP sensor in 2 stages.

Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 40 degrees.

24. Bleed the high-pressure fuel system.

If you feel like this job may be too overwhelming or run into any issues, consider YourMechanic to get it done. One of our mobile technicians can come to your home and replace the fuel pressure sensor at your own convenience.

I have a 1981 e-350 with dual fuel tanks the p.o. added a third tank and 3 electric fuel pumps along with sepparate gauges and swi
ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Installed new delphi fuel pump and fram fuel filter. still no pressure on fuel rail valve and wont start. 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe
ANSWER : Hi there – I suspect you have weak power getting to the fuel pump. I would first check the voltage coming out of the fuel pump relay. If the contacts in the relay are burned, you will not get reliable current flow to the pump. Check the fuel pump ground as well (voltage drop across the ground, not just continuity). I recommend a fuel system inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

Engine crank, no coil spark, fuel pump does not kick in.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be multiple issues causing your lack of spark problem, ranging from a minor electrical short in the main relay to an issue with your ECU. In order to know for sure, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete an electrical problems inspection.

Fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hello,
You may want to try checking the fuel pump relay. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump your ECU actually connects one of the ground wires to complete the circuit and send power to the fuel pump. If the wires all have power running through them, then it is likely you have a faulty relay. The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your wiring as this can be very difficult and time consuming without the proper wiring diagram.

I have a truck that won’t run and is not getting gas to the engine. Fuel pump is running, have a new filter and new fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a clogged fuel injector or potentially a faulty injector that is fried internally. I would suggest testing them if you have access to a multi meter. Disconnect the injector from the electrical connector and set your multi meter to Ohms mode and measure the resistance of the injector. After testing all injectors, compare the resistance. They should be the same or very close. If they are not, they will likely need to be replaced.