Everything works perfectly fine only when I reverse and accelerate it makes a buzzing sound when accelerate only

When I put my car on drive it drives fine when I shift to reverse backs normally but If I would to accelerate it lacks power and has a buzzing noise.

My car has 126995 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello, thank you for writing in. If the noise only happens in reverse, then there may be an issue with the transmission. Unless you are familiar with transmissions, you may not want to tackle something like this yourself. In the case this is your transmission, you are possibly looking at a bad solenoid, or the reverse gear may be wearing down. The transmission fluid pump can also struggle in reverse, and further testing may need to be done to it as well. If the buzzing happens when accelerating in a forward gear, then you are more concerned with the engine and the wheels. Further testing must be done. For more help with this testing, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

A humming noise while you accelerate could be a sign of a bad wheel bearing, uneven tires, or an alternator belt issue. Some of these problems can be dangerous, so it`s important to bring your car to a shop ASAP. Bizarre noises are never a good sign when driving.
Fuel injectors may become dirty over time and not be able to provide as much fuel to the cylinder as is needed. Dirty fuel injectors may cause the engine to run lean which will in turn, cause hesitation when accelerating.
If your car makes a humming noise, it could mean the differential needs lubricant, the transmission is failing or the universal joints or wheel bearings are wearing out. What to do about it: Pay close attention to what happens before and when your car starts making the sound.
Air escaping through a leak can also cause a distinct “humming” noise. This could be a small leak in the exhaust system or air intake system. Sometimes driving accentuates noises that are heard while idling. If the noise is only present while driving it is likely related to the drivetrain.
Usually this type of noise in an indication of a exhaust leak or a vacuum leak due to a broken or disconnected vacuum line. If you also notice that your car is slow to accelerate or is running rough, then it is likely that one of these items is the root cause.
If you notice your car making a grinding sound when it accelerates, your issue is likely to do with your transmission, a problem with your differential, a bad wheel bearing, a damaged CV joint, or a worn engine/motor mount.
Common causes of why a car feels sluggish when accelerating include dirty mass air flow sensor (MAF), faulty spark plugs, defective throttle position sensor, clogged catalytic converter, faulty oxygen sensor, clogged air filter, and fuel system malfunctioning.
If the sound resembles humming, buzzing, or clunking, you may be experiencing transmission failure. Bad automatic transmissions may emit humming, buzzing, or whining noises while manual transmissions have harsher “clunking” sounds.
Clean or replace your vehicle`s air filter when your acceleration is acting sluggish. Put in new spark plugs when they go bad if your engine misfires and hesitates. Replace your vehicle`s fuel filter when there`s a delayed response when you accelerate.
Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced.
Typically when the car will not accelerate past 60 MPH, it`s due to either the ECU activating a limp mode or other mechanical (fuel or ignition system component) failures.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Everything works perfectly fine only when I reverse and accelerate it makes a buzzing sound when accelerate only
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. If the noise only happens in reverse, then there may be an issue with the transmission. Unless you are familiar with transmissions, you may not want to tackle something like this yourself. In the case this is your transmission, you are possibly looking at a bad solenoid, or the reverse gear may be wearing down. The transmission fluid pump can also struggle in reverse, and further testing may need to be done to it as well. If the buzzing happens when accelerating in a forward gear, then you are more concerned with the engine and the wheels. Further testing must be done. For more help with this testing, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

2012 ford f-150with ecoboost. Makes roaring sound when foot lifted off accelerator when going > 20 mph.runs fine. runs fine.
ANSWER : Hi there. A roaring sound while decelerating can be caused by a damaged wheel bearing or in some cases an exhaust leak. Depending on where the noise is coming from would determine the source of the issue and thus, the correct repairs needed. In order to help you locate this problem, an onsite inspection by one of our professional mechanics would be the best way to diagnose your noise.

I hear a weird rattling sound when I let off the accelerator.
ANSWER : I hate to say it but it sounds like the issue is the transmission. There are a few things you could check before you go back to the rebuild shop. Check the driveshaft and U-joints. And check the engine and transmission mounts. The fact is there are 1000 moving parts, hundreds of hydraulic passageways, and very tight specifications in a modern automatic transmission. A very minor failure can cause very serious issues. If the shop that rebuilt it has a warranty, I wouldn’t hesitate to take it back and see what they think. If you would like a second opinion, consider having a certified technician from YourMechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your car’s location to diagnose the rattling noise.

Just took it to the shop and it worked fine, got an oil change , replaced a drive belt, and now car wont start. No lights are on.
ANSWER : Hi there. It’s possible that your battery has died, the battery cables are damaged or corroded or the main electrical relay is faulty and needs to be replaced. In order to determine what is causing your Alero to not start or have any power, it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can pinpoint the precise source of your car’s issues and ensure the right repairs are made.

My windshield wipers stopped working the motor seems to be working since when i turn them on you can hear a sound but they wont wi
ANSWER : Hi there. When the motor is working, but the windshield wipers do not move, the issue is typically caused by a broken wiper arm or perhaps one of the internal links inside the motor is broken. The best way to have any problem like this correctly diagnosed is to have one of our professional mobile mechanics come to your location and complete a wipers are not working inspection. This will allow them to identify the damaged parts and make the correct repairs.

Dash, Tail/brake, dome, trunk, glovebox, and door lights won’t work, dash doing weird things.
ANSWER : Hi there. Sure would appear a lot is going on electrically all at once. This could be, a problem in the PDC (power distribution center). The PDC is typically located under the hood and contains numerous fuses and relays. I don’t believe any one fuse will resolve all of the electrical issues. There is a possibility, it is not a power supply issue. It may be, the result of a poor electrical ground common to the inoperative components. Proper circuit testing should be performed. This would confirm the cause of multiple electrical failures. I recommend having your vehicle’s electrical problems be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

2006 Mazda 3 makes a hum sound when accelerating. Sound is louder at higher speeds but stops when car is out in neutral and still
ANSWER : Hi there. If the humming sound is coming from your vehicle while it’s in gear, then the likely source is the transmission. It is possible that CV joints or wheel bearings might also be the source of your problem, but those typically make noise all the time. It would probably be a good idea to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location to complete a car is making a noise inspection, so they can pinpoint the source of this issue and recommend the right repairs.

My 2010 kia blower fan stopped working but was fine last week. This occurred a few times in past. Works fine then stops blowing ag
ANSWER : The blower switch and the plug connection on the back of the switch, as well as a faulty blower motor are likely, too. I would check the blower motor first as you can easily power the motor directly to see if it runs. If the circuit includes a blower motor resistor block, of course be sure to check if the resistor block has continuity (specified resistance in ohms) at each position. If the blower motor runs, I would check the switch as occasionally there will be a bad connection at the switch that eventually causes the blower not to work. The relay is easy to test and if it works consistently as commanded, you can assume there is no intermittent fault. Obviously, check the fuse in the circuit, too, but if the fuse is bad, that means there is a problem in the circuit that will have to be repaired. Fuses blow due to electrical faults (e,g., short circuits). If you desire, a certified mechanic from YourMechanic can diagnose the problem you are having in an electrical component diagnostic.