How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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With regard to Diagnostic Trouble Code P1450, actually, there is much more that could be at issue than just a blocked EVAP canister or vent solenoid. That trouble code will also set if there is a kinked or collapsed hose between the canister and the fuel tank, a faulty fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor or even a fuel filler cap that is stuck closed, preventing vacuum relief to the tank. So, basically, when you request a diagnostic from YourMechanic, all those possible faults have to EACH be ruled in or out. Parts are never just automatically replaced, at least not by reputable, professional mechanics, simply because a code sets and "refers" to a part or parts. Instead the parts referred to in diagnostic trouble codes have to be separately and sequentially diagnosed, and often tested, in a "decision tree". So, the bottom line is codes merely supply clues as to the fault and NEVER constitute a definitive diagnostic of the type that only a qualified mechanic can perform.
The other code that you are reporting, namely P2195 could have set due to intake vacuum leaks or intake hose leaks between the mass air sensor and the throttle body, excessive fuel pressure, and/or fuel injector(s) that might be leaking or stuck open.
It sounds like you have replaced and checked all the normal suspects in the evap system. You may also want to check the lines in the evap system. A leak in the system may also cause the code to be triggered and the motor to run rough. When an air leak is present in the EVAP system, the MAP sensor will not be able to determine the air density, and the MAF sensor will not be able to determine the volume of air, entering the engine correctly. This will lead to an over fueling situation or an under fueling situation depending on the size of the air leak and engine operating speeds and load. This may eventually lead to catalytic converter problems as well as misfiring problems. I would recommend having an expert from Your Mechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
Remove the two bolts that hold the canister onto the car and drop it down.
Then remove the bolts that secure the canister to the shield cover.
Disconnect the wiring harness to the canister near the rear of the vehicle.
Then pop out the harness sensor from the canister with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Then slide the hose clamps off the canister onto the hoses.
Use a screwdriver and pop the hoses off the canister and remove the purge valve.
Then take the remaining two hose clamps off the hoses that the canister is hanging by and use the screwdriver to take the hoses off the canister.
Then the canister will come off.
I recommend that not only changing out the foam inside the canister, but also replacing the purge valve. Installation is the opposite of the removal. If you need further assistance with your charcoal canister, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.