Engine wont start
my car started revving at high rpms when i turned a corner, i shut off the car after coming to a stop but then would not start again. now theres a grinding noise whenever i turn the key but the engine wont start. i replaced the battery as well as the starter.
My car has 90000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
It sounds like you may have experienced some internal transmission damage. This vehicle is a front wheel drive car so the transmission is in the front of the vehicle rather than under the front seat.
Due to the placement of the transmission and the drivetrain setup, the cornering has an effect on the transmission. This is because the CV axles are what sends power from the transmission to the wheels. When the wheels are turned, some of this turning force is enacted upon the transmission through the CV axles.
I would recommend having the transmission inspected to determine if any internal damage exists. I would also recommend having the intake manifold removed in order to gain access to the starter. Once the starter has been removed, you should be able to get a visual look at what is causing the grinding noise.
If you need assistance with these checks, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the starting issue firsthand and help you make the necessary repairs. Best of luck.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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The most common reasons a Cadillac Seville won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
SEVILLE. The Cadillac Seville (discontinued in 2004) was a full-size performance sedan that combined responsive Northstar V8 engine power with advanced driving technology.
The Seville Luxury Sedan (SLS) started with the 4.9 L HT-4900 V8 but got a 270 hp (200 kW) LD8 Northstar V8 for 1994. The Seville Touring Sedan (STS) also started with the 4.9 L HT-4900 in 1992 but was upgraded to the 295 hp (220 kW) L37 Northstar in 1993.
Prices shown are the prices you can expect to pay for a 1958 Cadillac Eldorado Seville 2 Door Coupe across different levels of condition.
The most common reasons a Cadillac CTS won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.
If your vehicle won`t start, it`s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter.
The Great Depression sapped the auto industry generally, with the luxury market declining more steeply; between 1928 and 1933, Cadillac sales declined by 84% to 6,736 vehicles. Exacerbating sales performance for the Cadillac brand was a policy, reflective of the times, which discouraged sales to African Americans.
The Runabout and Tonneau were the first automobiles completed by Cadillac in October 1902. They were two-seat horseless carriages that were powered by Leland`s 10 horsepower single-cylinder engine.
The 1994 Seville ranges in power from the SLS Sedan 4D with 270 horsepower and a 0-60 time of 7.5 seconds to the STS Touring Sedan 4D with 295 horsepower and a 0-60 time of 7.5 seconds.
1990 Cadillac SEVILLE 4.5L 8 -cyl Engine 
Only two Ghia Cadillacs were ever made, and they are some of the rarest cars on the planet.
However, the longest wheelbase standard Cadillac, (not limo or stretched Fleetwoods) was the 1930 Cadillac, which was built on a 140-inch wheelbase that to this day, remains the longest standard size Cadillac ever built.
Why won`t my car start but I have power? If you attempt to start up your car but the engine won`t turn over and the dashboard lights up, then you most likely have an issue with your battery. You could have a damaged or corroded battery terminal, which is stopping the engine from starting up when you fully turn the key.
Broken or Damaged Ignition
If your headlights can turn on, but your car won`t crank, that means that your battery is charged, but either the starter or ignition is the problem. If the starter or ignition is the problem, a starter engine can be jumped by using a charged battery.
When it comes to the vehicle not starting, and not having electrical power, always start by checking the battery. In your situation you can go remove the battery from the vehicle, and take it to have it tested. If it is bad, simply replace it and drive the care home.
The first step is to ID the engine block. The block casting number is found at the rear of the Cadillac engine, between the intake manifold and transmission bell housing, right next to the oil pressure sending unit. The casting number is the raised, cast in number on the passenger side.
In September 1914, Cadillac introduced the first V8 engine in a series produced, mass-market automobile. The 3-main-bearings 314.5-cid V8 had a 3-1/8 x 5-1/8 in. bore and stroke. It was a 90-degree L-head with non-detachable heads and two cast iron four-cylinder blocks on an aluminum crankcase.
Start the car by pressing the brake pedal and pushing the Stop/Start button. NOTE: The first time you do this, you`ll see a Driver Information Center (DIC) message indicating no key fob is detected and prompting you to place the fob in the key pocket.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Fuel pump engages. Batery good, alternator good volts, jump start helps when wont start. Temp does not matter. Intermittent?
Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.
The car is having trouble starting up ,70 percent of the time it starts right up. the other 30 percent, it randomly won’t start its
Hey there thanks for writing in about your 1998 Honda Accord. This could be a few things. A faulty ignition switch, a failing crank sensor, or possibly other faulty sensors could be the cause. To have this taken care of, consider having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your car’s location to diagnose and repair the hard start issue.
Cranks over start than dies
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
Engine tapping noise related to short term fuel trim but only on cold start up.
Has a mechanic’s stethoscope been used to track down the specific location of the noise? There are several solenoid valves in the engine bay that do not run all the time and may be pretty loud once they start, such as an evaporative emissions purge valve and the like. The high fuel trims on one bank sound like you may have a problem on one side with a vacuum leak. A positive trim means air is being added and the computer is trying to add fuel to compensate.
I recommend having an experienced technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to determine why the engine is making a noise and suggest the proper repair.
Car won’t start after driving any distance. I have to let it cool down before I can start the engine again.
It’s curious that you don’t seem to have a code in the ECM. Usually if you have a malfunction that prevents the car from starting, there will be a code resulting. That being said, it sounds like you may have an issue with a crank position sensor or an ignition control module. Both of these have a history of failing when they are hot and coming back to life again when they are cold. A bad crank sensor will almost certainly result in a code, but an ignition module might not. It’s hard to say what the issue is about the door lock, but it is probably not related.
Both of those pieces are pretty expensive, so I don’t recommend just replacing them to see if it works. Your best course of action would be to have a mechanic check it out so you don’t replace anything you don’t need. YourMechanic can send a technician to your home to diagnose the starting problem firsthand and recommend an accurate fix.
Engine starts but stalls immediately
This may be an issue related to what is called an idle air control module. This is a module that regulates the amount of air that is allowed into the intake system as it is mixed with the fuel before being injected into the motor. When this is not working properly, this will cause the car to stall as you describe. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to definitively diagnose the stalling issue and make necessary repairs.
Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.
Car engine dies
The first thing I would do is have the turbo/intake system ’smoke’ tested or visually inspected for any leaks. Without a smoke machine, you could spray your engine and turbo system with brake cleaner and listen for idle changes to help determine if there is a leak. The brake cleaner method is not as effective as using a smoke machine.
Next, checking your fuel pressure is in order to see if you lose fuel pressure as it sits or if the fuel pump in the tank is weak. If the fuel pump in the tank is weak or losing pressure, it would cause the engine to crank as you mentioned. Performing a fuel pressure test is not easy and requires a special tool. If you want to have this looked at a technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose your stalling issue.