Engine knocking noise in 2011 Dodge Charger

ANSWER : Coolant leaks can be external or internal. If the coolant is leaking internally into the cylinders or crankcase, that will require a fairly significant repair. If the coolant is leaking externally, unless the leak is at the head gasket or the lower intake manifold, external leaks can be repaired readily. On the engine you have it was really common to have coolant leaks at the lower intake manifold, so common that the gasket there was completely designed and a different repair procedure was specified (higher torque on the manifold studs). To get the coolant leak diagnosed, please use YourMechanic’s coolant leak diagnostic service link. The knocking noise is obviously of concern. Unfortunately, typically, such noise is from worn bearings, connecting rods, and other major components. The noise might be accompanied by low oil pressure. My best advice is have the cooling leak diagnosed in case that is readily resolvable. The mechanic can evaluate the noise and if it is internal the engine will eventually have to be disassembled and rebuilt. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. There must be more diagnostic work and testing done to determine what the issue is. Without a drive or timing belt, the engine would either not run at all, or perform very poorly. This does not mean that an inspection of the timing belt/chain should not be done. There are other components in the timing belt system that can become damaged and cause issues. The valve and lifter consideration is valid, and can be inspected visually with some time and energy. Unfortunately you may also have crankshaft end play or a bad camshaft bearing. Use the location of the sound to help you determine what to check into first. One by one, check into the systems in that area until you find the culprit. For more help resolving the noise, contact our service department.

ANSWER : Hi there. When passing a vehicle and turning off the overdrive at the same time with the pedal on the floor will be like trying to shift a vehicle without the clutch in a manual transmission driven vehicle. The rpm’s spike to the max and make the engine have a red line. What probably happened is the engine spun a rod bearing or damaged the engine causing the knocking noise. Check the codes on the ECM (computer) to see what is stored. When the check engine light flashes that means that the issue is happening right at that moment. I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you diagnose an engine knock.

ANSWER : The variable valve timing system uses oil pressure and solenoid control. If the system is not working properly or the oil supply is restricted to this system a knocking noise can occur which can get louder on acceleration and if the timing is not being correctly adjusted the engine could stall. A Check Engine Light may be accompanied with this so faults should be read out as well especially if the engine stalls. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will be able to determine the type of noise, locate its source, and repair the issue to correct the noise and stalling issue.

ANSWER : Hi there. It appears you have more than one problem with your vehicle. The noise coming from engine area with a load on the electrical system, may be a bad diode in the alternator. Continuing to drive the vehicle with a bad alternator diode, may leave you with a dead battery. The hot air coming from the vents sounds like blend door actuator(s) problems. I recommend the concerns your vehicle has, it be inspected by a certified technician like one from YourMechanic to pinpoint the noise and help you fix it accordingly.

ANSWER : Hi there. A binding accessory could be causing your concern. Simply remove the drive belt and recheck. If the problem goes away, this eliminates the fear that there could be something goin on with the engine or transmission internally. It sounds like this could be the water pump. If the water pump is binding or leaking, it can cause the belt to slip and make it seem like the engine gets bogged down. Usually a visual inspection quickly uncovers the leak. However a properly executed pressure test is the best way to uncover leaks, both current and potential. I suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a car is making a noise inspection.

ANSWER : The C/V version is rated for 1,500 pounds of cargo and 300 pounds of passengers (1,800 pounds combined). All other versions of this vehicle, including the SE, have a suspension rated for 1,150 pounds max, passengers and cargo combined. Obviously, if you take the seats out of an SE you will reach your minimum required payload of 1,200 pounds. To determine the exact load carrying capacity of a vehicle simple view the certification placard on the door pillar which will contain the GVWR (subtract curb weight to get cargo capacity) but note that ratings per axle which must be observed to avoid overloading and dangerous operating conditions. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : My guess is that you have a leak somewhere, most likely a coolant leak. Coolant leaking onto a hot engine will immediately result in white smoke. Since you stopped the vehicle before all of the coolant was lost, the vehicle did not overheat. As for the noise, I’m not sure. It could be that the engine fan was running to cool the engine down. Whatever is going on with your vehicle, it sounds quite serious. I suggest you don’t drive it until the knocking sound is inspected by a professional firsthand. YourMechanic is an excellent option since we come to you.