Died,then wouldn’t crank for a few min then cranked and drive but cut out once in the way back home.

I drove my Suburban about 25 miles to the next town and it drove fine I went in the store for about 30 minutes my daughter come out before me and cranked it but whenever I got to the car it was off it had died so I cranked it back up and went to leave the store and it died in the parking lot I cranked on it 2 or 3 4 times I don't know and it wouldn't crank so I was going to push it out of the way and my mom got in and it cranked right up I drove it back home and cut out one time but did not die I just don't know what the issue might be

My car has 200000 miles.
My car has an a

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
This may sound like a dumb question, but when was the last time you put gas in it? It may be possible that the fuel gauge sending unit is failing and giving you a false reading. It is also possible that you have an electrical concern. If you have the Check Engine Light on, it will indicate that there is a diagnostic trouble code stored. If so, have the vehicle scanned for the codes, and that may help identify the system or component that requires further testing. A certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, will be able to diagnose these trouble codes and determine the exact cause of your concern.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.
There are three major causes for a stalled engine: A lack of fuel, a lack of air flow and improper ignition. Running out of fuel is one of the most common causes of engine stalling, but dirty fuel injectors or a plugged fuel filter can also be the culprit. Your engine needs air to run properly as well.
Overall, the Chevy 5.3 liter engine is a reliable engine that can last for many years if it is properly maintained. Drivers who take good care of their engines can expect to get 200,000 miles or more out of them. However, there are some factors that can shorten the lifespan of this engine.
Chevrolet 5.3 Engine Issues and Recommendations

Given that the major issues with oil consumption started in 2007, a 2006 or older model is a safe bet. If you are searching for something newer with a 5.3, then it is best to look to models from 2014 or newer that are equipped with the Ecotec3 5.3.

When your engine cranks but won`t start or run, it could mean your engine is having trouble producing a spark, getting fuel, or creating compression. The most common causes are problems in the ignition (for example, a bad ignition coil) or fuel system (for example, a clogged fuel filter).
The most common reasons a Chevrolet Suburban won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.
Bad solenoid may be causing vehicle to stall.
If you aren`t getting the right air/fuel mixture, your engine might stall or refuse to start. When the mass airflow sensor fails, your check engine light will come on because the onboard computer received a signal that there is a problem with air/fuel mixture in your engine.
Engines with the LS designation were typically set up for passenger car duty while the Vortec line was for GM`s SUV and truck lines. In other words, the difference is in the marketing and where the various engines were going to be used across the GM brands.
The GM engines, L84 5.3 V-8 and the L87 6.2 liter EcoTec3 V-8, with build dates between September 2020 and March 2021 seem to have the most problems with defective lifters. These engines use the active fuel management (AFM) and dynamic fuel management (DFM), and at times the lifter will get stuck or lock into place.
The suit alleges the 5.3L V8 engines found in a number of 2010-2014 model year GM vehicles have flawed piston rings that don`t maintain tension well enough to keep oil in the crankcase.
LM4 – Aluminum Version of Standard 5.3L

The LM4 is essential all the same as a standard LM7 but with an aluminum block.

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and speed of the crankshaft and other parameters that play an important role when starting the engine. If the crankshaft position sensor is having a problem, the vehicle may have intermittent starting issues or not start at all.
The most common reason a Chevy car (or any car) won`t start is a dead battery. If you have a battery tester, check your charge to see if it`s low. A dead battery can also be jumpstarted with jumper cables.
If this happens to you, chances are it`s not the starter. Instead, it`s likely because your engine isn`t getting at least one of the four major components it needs to start: fuel, air, spark, or compression.
A failing camshaft position sensor begins losing its ability to quickly transfer data. Mismatched fuel delivery and ignition timing, even if off by a few milliseconds, will cause your vehicle to sputter, accelerate poorly, lack power, stall or even shut off.
Automatics. Automatic vehicles use what`s called a torque converter to manage transmission fluid and keep your engine running while at a stop. If your torque converter fails, the engine can stall out.
Rusting, power failure, irregular pressure, missing equipment, an incorrect amount of voltage or current, dirt stuck in the system and corrosion are some of the possible reasons why a solenoid valve may not properly close or open.
Common causes of intermittent stalling may include a bad idle speed control (ISC) system, low fuel pressure, loss of ignition, vacuum or EGR leaks, or other problems we`ll get to later in this article.
Some electrical problems that could cause a car to stall include: Corroded, stripped or detached electrical wiring. alternator. A bad battery.
The 5.3L LS Engine Family

It`s essentially a longer-stroke version of the 4.8L LS and powered vehicles such as the Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, and Escalade.

The 5.3L V8 Vortec LMF is a technically advanced small-block V-8 engine that delivers a great balance of power, torque and efficiency. The engine is powerful, but delivers exceptional refinement to go with great strength.
It is identical, with the exception of being able to run on E85. There are also two aluminum block variants of the Vortec 5300, including the LM4 and L33. Though, the aluminum block variants do not see any additional power gains.
One common problem seen in the 5.3-liter engine is a failure of the valve cover to seal, which can cause heavy oil burn. Depending on the wear-and-tear on your vehicles, you may be able to get away with having the rings cleaned and getting a replacement valve cover that will seal again.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Died,then wouldn’t crank for a few min then cranked and drive but cut out once in the way back home.
ANSWER : This may sound like a dumb question, but when was the last time you put gas in it? It may be possible that the fuel gauge sending unit is failing and giving you a false reading. It is also possible that you have an electrical concern. If you have the Check Engine Light on, it will indicate that there is a diagnostic trouble code stored. If so, have the vehicle scanned for the codes, and that may help identify the system or component that requires further testing. A certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, will be able to diagnose these trouble codes and determine the exact cause of your concern.

Car cuts off while driving after sitting for a few hours cuts back on check engine light comes on but does not stay on
ANSWER : Hello there, faults such as this can be a bit difficult to diagnose. When the cars cut off like this but then starts fine when they cool off, it points to a part that is failing once it gets hot but may work okay normally. The most likely cause for the cutting off would be low fuel pressure, fuel pump, fuel filter, battery cable, battery, or an ignition switch. If you would like to have this checked, a technician such as one from YourMechanic will be able to diagnose your stalling issue and perform any repairs required.

It won’t crank I replaced the coil pack and it started and I made it home and turn it off and tried to crank it back-up it wouldn’
ANSWER : It is possible that your fuel pump may be failing. Sometimes you can prime the fuel pump by turning the ignition from off to on a few times. This will allow more fuel to be primed into the engine. This may have been why you were able to make it home. I would recommend having your fuel pressure tested and compared against the manufacturer’s specifications. If the fuel pressure is low, you may have a dead fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or faulty fuel pressure regulator. Consider YourMechanic for this inspection as it can be completed at your home or office.

I have a 2002 mustang GT I was driving down the road car just cut off on me tried to crank it back up and just clicks even with
ANSWER : You may have a faulty ignition switch. Check to see if there are any stored diagnostic trouble codes. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power or a large voltage drop is measured, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes the ignition switch, grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

Car cranks up and stay cranked soon as I put it in drove it cuts off after a lil jurk an still will crank rite back up its a 2014
ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like you may be having internal transmission concerns affecting the engine; possibly a torque converter lock up solenoid stuck on. This can be confirmed with a capable scan tool and a digital volt/ohm meter. Check for any possible stored codes to determine the direction of diagnostic procedures and verify whether or not the solenoid is being commanded on or off. The digital volt/ohm meter can be used to check the voltage and ground operation of the solenoid via the transmission electrical connector, the wiring diagram, and specification list. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a car starts then dies inspection.

Shifting issues from drive to reverse and back to drive
ANSWER : Mercedes has a dealer service order (#Order No: S-B-27.19/118A
) that addresses diagnosis, and possible dealer repair of the transmission for your model. Check with your dealer to confirm coverage of this.

Check engine light illuminated car runs 5 mins shakes and cuts off. 2004 Chrysler Crossfire
ANSWER : Hey there. You most likely have one of two problems. The ignition module or fuel pump in the tank is getting hot and shutting down after the 5 minutes.

First, I recommend having the computer scanned to see what codes are stored for the Check Engine Light. Have the codes read to shed light on the possible problems.

The car should also be tested for spark at the spark plugs and fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine to see if the engine is loosing spark or fuel, and then go from there. For help having this checked, a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, can diagnose the stalling problem to pinpoint any needed repairs.

Smoke coming from under my hood.
ANSWER : Hello there, thanks for writing in. I would be glad to help you out here. Most likely you have a leak.

When the vehicle engine is stone cold, look around the valve cover gasket for liquid oil and then work your way around and down the engine to see if you can see any signs of "fresh" oil.

Another possibility of this issue could be due to a pinhole leak in a coolant hose that perhaps sprays on a hot manifold.

It is not likely transmission fluid is a cause here, but on a vehicle that age (20 years), you may still have the usual leaks from gaskets, so do monitor the level of transmission fluid.

Due to the different types of odor between leaking (and burning if hitting the manifold) oil and leaking antifreeze, it is likely a mechanic could pin it down for you. Finding coolant leaks in particular is sometimes easy, we just need just to pressurize the cooling system when it is cold and safe to work on.

If it is an oil leak, in extreme cases, oil leaking on a hot manifold can cause an engine compartment fire so if you suspect oil, you do want to have this investigated and resolved. Also, breathing in vaporous oil fumes as you are in or around the car is not particularly healthy. As a car engine ages, the gaskets and seals can often, be the weak point or the area of failure.

Engines have become so reliable, mechanically speaking, but gasket technology has just not kept up. This appears to be the situation you face. Your engine configuration is a fairly simple one , so I’d recommend getting one of our certified automotive technicians to come to your home or office to inspect, diagnose, and repair this issue for you. Hope this helps and good luck!