Coolant liquid running out unusually

ANSWER : Hi there. For the coolant light to go out, you would need to have the coolant between the low line and the full line for the light to go out. If the coolant is low and keeps on being low, then look for any signs of coolant leaks. You may have to use a coolant pressure tester to pressurize the reservoir to allow the leak to be found.

If you need further assistance with the coolant being low and the warning light being on, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hi. Unless you are having to repeatedly refill the coolant system – which indicates a different problem, the false "low coolant" issue may simply be a failed sensor in the coolant recovery tank. It is not recognizing that there is adequate fluid in the tank. The scenario you describe where the car will not start after being driven, then parked suggests a "heat-soak" issue for an electrical component (crank/cam position sensor, starter solenoid, neutral safety switch, etc.). If you would like to have this looked at, a certified technician from YourMechanic can diagnose the starting issue and follow through with repairs.

ANSWER : Check the transmission fluid. If all testing eliminates the head gasket, cracked cylinder head, etc, it may be a cracked radiator.Transmission fluid is sent forward to the radiator to be cooled. Ir runs into what is typically called the "side tanks" of the radiator. So the transmission fluid and coolant are both flowing through the radiator and kept apart just as the engine oil and coolant are kept apart in the engine by the head gasket, coolant and oil passages, etc. If the tank in the radiator is cracked internally, transmission fluid may actually be forced into the coolant as transmission fluid is under higher pressure than the coolant. Short of a cracked head gasket, cylinder head, or engine block, it’s really the only other source of any type of oil getting into the coolant unless the vehicle is equipped with an engine oil cooler as well.

ANSWER : Hey there:

It’s common for many mechanics to make the mistake of mis-diagnosing the cause of an overheating situation; especially when they assume it’s a thermostat issue. The problem could be caused by a blockage in the coolant tubes running from the radiator to the overflow tank and back to the radiator. However, it also may be due to air trapped in the coolant lines. I think a good idea would be to contact a different ASE certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, and have them complete a coolant flush, which should remove any blockages in the coolant tubes and may solve your problem.

ANSWER : When the engine is cold, check to be sure that the radiator itself is full. If the level of coolant in the radiator level is too low, that can cause overheating. If you are adding coolant frequently, you have a leak and that leak can be identified in a cooling system leak diagnostic. Be sure not to drive the car if it is overheating because overheating can warp the cylinder head and/or engine block causing costly damage. The most common causes of overheating include low coolant level, a faulty thermostat, a plugged radiator, a faulty radiator pressure cap, collapsed hoses, non functioning cooling fans, and a faulty water pump or drive belt. Certain engine faults, such as a leaking head gasket, poor engine running condition, and exhaust blockages can also cause overheating. If you desire that the overheating problem be diagnosed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request an engine overheating diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. It is quite possible that you may have damaged the radiator when hitting the pot hole. Although there are protective shields located under the radiator itself, they are typically very thin and made of plastic in most cases. Sometimes the quick impact can cause cracking along the base of the radiator. When this happens, coolant will leak rather quickly. I would recommend two things, first, stop driving the vehicle until this issue is repaired. Second, contact a professional mobile mechanic to complete a coolant leak inspection so they can pinpoint precisely what is causing the leak and what repairs will be needed. This will allow you to have an accurate estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : For your safety, never attempt to service the engine cooling system while the engine is hot or the system is pressurized, as doing so could result in serious injury.

Since you are losing coolant, the engine cooling system needs to have a pressure test conducted to find the source of the leak. Some obvious evidence of a leak can include white residue near a coolant hose or a wet area.

The leak will have to be resolved and then the cooling system filled and bled. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who can safely conduct the cooling system pressure test and locate the source of the leak. From there, they can make the proper repair to correct this issue.

ANSWER : Hello – coolant temperature sensors are variable resistor devices – the colder the coolant temperature, the greater the electrical resistance value reported to the engine computer. (The warmer the temperature, the less resistance.) An "open" condition, as in an incomplete circuit, or not plugged in for example, would indicate infinite resistance. This would represent the coldest possible condition to the computer, and it would give you a very rich fuel mixture. Some engine management systems are sophisticated enough to recognize a wiring or sensor failure that shows an "open" condition like this, and it plugs in a default value (say 50 degrees Farenheit) arbitrarily. It sounds like in your case, the coolant sensor is either incorrect, or you have two failed sensors – it happens, although not all that often. Plugged in, the sensor is sending a signal for an extremely cold setting, with a very rich mixture as the result. Disconnecting the sensor may be getting you a default setting, and fuel mixture, that is much better for the engine’s performance. I would do some checking with the wiring, and sensor value at various temperature to determine where the fault lies. I would recommend an engine sensor inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.