Clicking noise when I crank my car after a cold start. It goes away after the car idles down and warms up

ANSWER : Hello. There are 2 possibilities for this clicking sound. First, you may need to have the valves adjusted. They may be a tad loose with your mileage. The recommended interval for a valve adjustment for this engine is every 105K miles. The second possible source of a clicking sound on startup is the variable timing cam actuator.

This component is driven by oil pressure and varies the cam position relative to the crank for improved torque and fuel efficiency. Worn seals in the actuator allow oil to drain down overnight, and it takes a second or two on startup for pressurized oil to refill the actuator and eliminate the noise.

If you would like to have this all scoped out, a qualified pro from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the noise and pinpoint proper repairs.

ANSWER : If the battery is weak and the voltage is dropping to below 9 volts you will get the clicking without the starter turning the motor. Have the battery voltage checked and if battery cannot hold a load then replace it and clean the battery terminals and recheck system to see if it starts.

ANSWER : Hello,
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.

ANSWER : Hi there:

Usually this issue is cased by low cranking amps inside the battery. If you’ve recently had the battery replaced, it’s possible that an electrical component that makes up the charging system might be damaged or faulty. It’s also quite possible that the main electrical relay or the starter relay is giving you fits. To know for certain what the exact issue might be on your 1989 Toyota Camry, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can pinpoint the source of your issues and recommend the right repairs.

ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. Given the description of not being able to start your vehicle, when it is cold and jump starting the vehicle without any problem. This leads me to believe the battery does not have enough cold cranking amp capacity. The engine needs to turn over fast enough to start. This may be nothing more than a weak battery. I recommend having this confirmed by a certified technician from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : With the randomness of the codes you are pulling, it is hard to determine what they have in common. When diagnosing mechanical errors like this, keep it simple. Due to the loss of power and stalling issue, I would like you to look at the one component that may have a huge effect over all of theses parts.

The ELD is a unit which measures the amount of power coming from the battery. It allows the alternator to adjust the field, and the amount of power generated by it. If you are experiencing issues with the ELD, which allows the battery and alternator to behave incorrectly, the other electrical components in the vehicle will not work. You may have more than one issue that is all coming to a head at once.

You can test the ELD with a multimeter, but any electrical testing can be dangerous, and we recommend you proceed with caution. If you’re not comfortable with this repair, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the stalling issue firsthand and help you make the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.

If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.

If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.

When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.

All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.

If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.