Car wouldn’t go past 50 on freeway then surge forward

recently while on freeway my car wocaouuldnt go past 50 for about 2 mins then it surged me back up to speed this happens often.

My car has 110000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Check your transmission fluid level. If the level is good, you likely have an issue with your transmission and it will need to be scanned with a diagnostic tool. Other potential culprits include a bad fuel pump, dirty air flow sensor, or a clogged fuel injector. I recommend having a certified technician inspect your acceleration issue in person to determine what repairs are needed.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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There are a few reasons why your car might be struggling to accelerate. It could be due to a problem with the timing belt, the spark plugs, or the fuel injectors. It could also be because you have a dirty air filter or a clogged fuel filter. The fuel system may also be low on fuel.
One of the most common reasons for poor acceleration is a problem with your car`s air intake system. If there is something blocking the air flow into your engine, it will prevent your car from getting the oxygen it needs to create the combustion needed for acceleration.
If you can continue to increase engine speed once you reach 45 MPH but the vehicle won`t actually go faster than 45 MPH, there could be a hydraulic fault in the transmission, a low transmission fluid level, slipping bands or clutches, a torque converter defect and so forth.
Typically when the car will not accelerate past 60 MPH, it`s due to either the ECU activating a limp mode or other mechanical (fuel or ignition system component) failures.
“Limp Mode” – If your car won`t accelerate over 25 or 40 mph, it could have engaged `limp mode. ` It is also known as a limp home mode, and it acts as a preservation feature. It is meant to get you home, to an auto mechanic, or safely off the road without destroying your engine.
When a throttle body is not functioning correctly, you`ll usually notice a distinctly poor or very low idle. If the problem is really severe, you might even begin stalling when coming to a stop or when the throttle is quickly pressed.
Yes. While the damage may seem small initially, the longer you drive with a bad oxygen sensor, the worse the damage will become. Eventually, you may experience rough idling, poor acceleration, engine misfires, an illuminated check engine light, and failed emission tests.
When you press down the accelerator pedal and get minimal output, it could mean you have a problem with your fuel system. The most probable issue is a clogged fuel filter. Your fuel filter works to ensure that dirt and debris do not get into the fuel system.
Among common possibilities for loss of power are throttle body faults (electronic throttle controls, mass airflow sensor, torn air intake hose), worn out spark plugs, faulty fuel pump or restricted fuel system, and large vacuum leaks (including EGR malfunctions, PCV system, leaking intake manifold, leaking EVAP purge …
It sounds like your transmission is slipping. It does not mean it needs replaced. You will need to have the transmission checked and fixed for leaks and refill transmission fluid, then see if it still slips. Have a transmission mechanic diagnose the transmission for you.
An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine`s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.
Among common possibilities for loss of power are throttle body faults (electronic throttle controls, mass airflow sensor, torn air intake hose), worn out spark plugs, faulty fuel pump or restricted fuel system, and large vacuum leaks (including EGR malfunctions, PCV system, leaking intake manifold, leaking EVAP purge …

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Car wouldn’t go past 50 on freeway then surge forward
ANSWER : Check your transmission fluid level. If the level is good, you likely have an issue with your transmission and it will need to be scanned with a diagnostic tool. Other potential culprits include a bad fuel pump, dirty air flow sensor, or a clogged fuel injector. I recommend having a certified technician inspect your acceleration issue in person to determine what repairs are needed.

Shifting from 2nd to 3rd, car stopped going fast. Now it won’t go at all.
ANSWER : It is possible that your clutch has failed. The sound you are hearing is likely due to the clutch not engaging with the engine due to it being worn. I would recommened having your transmission inspected by a qualified transmission expert to determine if your clutch requires replacement in order to resolve this issue. This inspection may require removal and partial disassembly of the transmission in order to verify that the clutch has failed.

My car won’t go past 35mph
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you provided, your vehicle has problems with the transmission again. You stated it will not shift into 3rd gear again, like before the transmission was rebuilt. If the transmission is again the problem, it should be covered under warranty. It could be a faulty shift solenoid. The shift indicator not reading properly could be a faulty transmission position sensor. If this is an overall lack of performance issue, according to your last statement, then possibly you have a restriction in the exhaust system. I recommend having your vehicle’s problems inspected and diagnosed by a certified technician from YourMechanic.

I was stopped on the freeway, started to go about 5 mph, the car jerked and stop without warning like the wheels locked up.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to try to help. It is hard to definitively diagnose what the issue is. At first it seems like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions are rather complicated and can do strange things when they malfunction. If not an issue with the transmission, you could also have a clutch issue. Always start by checking the simple components first. Check your transmission fluid level. Make sure your transmission filter is clean and debris free. When you have the transmission pan off, you can look and see if there are any metal shavings at the bottom. There is often a small magnet at the bottom of the pan designed to gather any metal shavings for a quick diagnosis. This is a sign of more serious transmission problems. Unless you have experience with automatic transmissions, it is not recommended that major repairs be done at home. I suggest taking your car to a transmission specialist for help.

i was driving and my oil light kept going off. Car had oil. Car wouldn’t accelerate. Car died. It does not turn engine over now.
ANSWER : It is very possible that the engine has been damaged beyond repair. Usually when the oil light goes on and the vehicle is low on oil, especially when a loud noise is heard right before the vehicle died, it is very likely that the engine is blown and would require replacement in order to continue driving the vehicle. I would recommend having the vehicle checked with a no start inspection. Consider YourMechanic as this service can be completed at your home or office.

My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

I put my car in drive but it won’t go but it will go in reverse what could be wrong
ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle speed sensors and engine speed sensors. Based on this information, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), or the Transmission Control Unit (TCM), executes the appropriate upshifts and downshifts by sending a signal to one of several shift solenoids. These transmission solenoids have spring-loaded plungers inside them, which are wrapped with wire. When this coil of wire receives an electrical charge from the TCM / ECU, it causes these plungers to open, allowing transmission fluid to flow into the valve body and pressurize the desired clutches and bands. When this happens, the transmission changes gears and you continue down the road. The computer controls the transmission solenoid in several ways. If the vehicle is equipped with a dedicated Transmission Control Unit, it can open or close the hydraulic circuit using a direct 12v signal. In some cases, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) can control the solenoid’s plunger by turning the ground circuit on and off. When this is not working properly, this can cause a jerking reaction, a delay in shifting or in some cases may cause the transmission to hesitate in shifting gears. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your transmission.

Car wouldn’t go over 50 mph I went over and next thing you know I hear loud knocking from the engine
ANSWER : The knocking is suggestive of a mechanical failure of some sort. I would first measure cylinder compression to get a basic idea of the condition of the engine. If it doesn’t test well (too low and/or too much variance) you needn’t do anything further as you’ll have to refurbish the engine. If compression is good, the cause of the knocking has to be pinpointed. If bearing related, there again, unfortunately will have to disassemble the engine and repair. The white smoke in the exhaust of course could be coolant. Sometimes just the head gasket can be replaced (if head and block are measured and confirmed flat) to resolve a leak but if you have a serious mechanical knock of course just putting a head gasket on is a pointless exercise as the whole engine will need refurbishment. To get the underlying issued pinpointed, and get a comprehensive explanation of your repair options and costs, please request an engine noise diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.