Car will crank but not fire
I ran over a chunk of asphalt. I lost my throttle and my fuel gauge quit working. The car was still running so I coasted to the shoulder and shut it off. Now the car will crank but won't fire. We tested relays and fuses, I haven't checked fuel pressure yet because I don't have a gauge but I disconnected fuel supply line at tank and pump is working.
My car has 145000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello there, thanks for writing in. A few different faults could have happened when your 2011 Chevrolet Cruze ran over the asphalt chunk. The most common would be a failed fuel line, damaged wiring, loose connections, or fuel leak. If you would like help, consider having a qualified technician such as one from YourMechanic come to your home or office to diagnose your crank no start condition and make any repairs required to get the vehicle up and running again. Hope this helps and best of luck!
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
The most common reasons a Chevrolet Cruze won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
Turn off your vehicle and place the two recognized transmitters in your front cupholder. Take off the key lock cylinder cap on the driver`s door handle. Insert the key of the new RKE transmitter into the key lock cylinder outside the driver`s door and turn the key to the unlock position five times within 10 seconds.
The most common reason a Chevy car (or any car) won`t start is a dead battery. If you have a battery tester, check your charge to see if it`s low. A dead battery can also be jumpstarted with jumper cables.
The 2011 Cruze problems include jerky acceleration and electrical system flaws. Transmission failures are the most common problem. Failures happen around 65,000 miles, and require a complete replacement. Frequent engine problems are also noted, including issues with the throttle body and intake manifold.
When your engine cranks but won`t start or run, it could mean your engine is having trouble producing a spark, getting fuel, or creating compression. The most common causes are problems in the ignition (for example, a bad ignition coil) or fuel system (for example, a clogged fuel filter).
If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.
The source of a “cranks, but no start” problem on your Chevy 350 distributor install is most likely incorrect distributor alignment with the harmonic balancer or a mismatched balancer and timing tab.
If you want to stay safe when investing in a Chevy Cruze, stay away from the 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, and 2015 models of this vehicle. The most prominent issue that arose with these cars is transmission failure and engine problems.
The 2011 Chevy Cruze ranks in the bottom third of the competitive compact car class. You can count on the Cruze for engaging driving dynamics, peppy engine performance, and solid safety ratings. However, its questionable reliability may let you down in the long run.
Hard start symptoms and starter failure may NOT be caused by the starter, but could actually be caused by the crankshaft position sensor. If your vehicle is experiencing one or more of these symptoms, the crankshaft sensor may be at fault.
The engine won`t turn over. The most common signal that your starter has a problem is if nothing happens when you turn the key or push to start. Unusual noises, such as clinking, grinding and whirring. If you ignore these sounds, it can eventually lead to damage to the engine flywheel.
The engine won`t turn over. The most common signal that your starter has a problem is if nothing happens when you turn the key or push to start. Unusual noises, such as clinking, grinding and whirring. If you ignore these sounds, it can eventually lead to damage to the engine flywheel.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Car won’t crank when it’s cold and now won’t start at all
ANSWER : Hi there:
Usually this issue is cased by low cranking amps inside the battery. If you’ve recently had the battery replaced, it’s possible that an electrical component that makes up the charging system might be damaged or faulty. It’s also quite possible that the main electrical relay or the starter relay is giving you fits. To know for certain what the exact issue might be on your 1989 Toyota Camry, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can pinpoint the source of your issues and recommend the right repairs.
When I go to crank my car the key stays in the start position and the car is constantly trying to crank itself.
ANSWER : First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.
If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.
If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.
When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.
All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.
If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.
My Car will not crank regularly.
ANSWER : Hello there, many common faults will cause your 2011 Audi A4 to have issues starting. If you have to inset the key a number of times your vehicle may have an ignition issue, the most common are worn keys, ignition switch, or a key cylinder. Other possible issues are the battery, fuel pump, starter, battery cable, MAF sensor, or a wiring harness issue. A qualified Technician such as one from YourMechanic will be able to diagnose your car hard to start issues and make any repairs required to resolve the issue.
The starter off and on wont turn over when trying to crank the car.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Often when starters are installed they come with a shim. These shims need to be installed to help hold the starter at the proper angle. If the angle is off the gears may not mesh correctly putting excess pressure on it that the starter cannot compete with. If the starter did not come with a shim, or you do not have it anymore, you can likely purchase or fabricate one relatively easily. If this does not solve the issue, make sure there are no wires that are being pinched or shorted out when the full weight of the car is being supported. For more help diagnosing the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment. And thank you for you service to our country.
I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you
Car keeps cranking over when not holding key, but still wont start
ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.
Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage
ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.
Car is idling at high rpm’s and when the days are hot the car cranks but doesn’t turn on and also exhaust is smoking when i rev it
ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest worn piston rings or valve stem seals (smoking), and a possible air leak in the intake, or idle air control valve sticking open (high idle). Both are signs of a higher-mileage engine with significant wear. I recommend an engine inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
