Car stoping at low speed
Hey I just got my car fixed had s transmission job and it ran fine for the first couple days but now when I get down to low speeds like a stop light it stops the engine sputters and cuts off. what's going on with my car ?
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. Being you just had transmission work I would suspect an issue with your torque converter which sits between the engine and transmission. The torque converter is designed to speed up and slow down in correlation to engine speed with the help of transmission fluid. If the torque converter is faulty it may not be able to spin at the required speeds which causes the engine to stall at times. Usually when a car cuts off at lower speeds it is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator or the idle air control valve. I suggest having your car inspected by a technician to help find the appropriate solution to your issue.
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How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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There are three major causes for a stalled engine: A lack of fuel, a lack of air flow and improper ignition. Running out of fuel is one of the most common causes of engine stalling, but dirty fuel injectors or a plugged fuel filter can also be the culprit. Your engine needs air to run properly as well.
Cars shouldn`t shut off while driving, but when they do, the most common culprits are: A bad crankshaft position sensor. Other sensor issues in the engine. A faulty fuel system.
This is a sign of a potentially failing or dirty mass air flow sensor. This is a unit that regulates the air intake into your engine and ensures that proper air/fuel mix is injected into the engine.
Most commonly when the car stalls while driving, but starts right up after, the cause is an intermittently failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. The first step to diagnosing this problem however, would be to scan the engine control module to check for fault codes.
There is a simple answer to this and again it is to do with the clutch pedal. To avoid stalling when slowing down, push the clutch pedal down completely, just before your vehicle becomes stationary. Failure to do so will result in the car stalling.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Grinding/Scraping noise from the front right of the car when driving at low speeds.
If there were something in the way of foreign material (e.g., road debris) stuck, you’d probably hear the noise all the time. The noise may be due to the brake pads (particularly if they are not OEM pads). Non-OEM pads sometimes have chunks of metal in them and if the caliper is sticky, at take-off (i.e., while still at low speed) the pad may be rubbing against the rotor until you get to a high enough speed that the pad finally retracts. It is also possible that the brake dust cover is contacting the rotor, because it was impacted and bent, but the noise should be present all the time if that is the case. Really, the first thing to examine is the brake assembly (pads, caliper, pins in torque plate, rotor, dust cover) on the right side. If the source of the noise is not found there, obviously another rotating component is responsible and that means stuff like axles and the transmission. Be sure it is really wheel related, though. It is possible for accessory drives and pulleys to make noises, too, and such could disappear at higher RPM, just as you are describing. In any event, inasmuch as the noise is so obvious, the origin would be quickly identified during an actual, on site noise diagnostic. Such can be scheduled by YourMechanic at your convenience and performed right at your location. Please let us know if you have additional questions or concerns.
Car is chugging at low speeds and then stalls when I stop.
This may be related to a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. This valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer which will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed. This is all controlled by the idle air control valve. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of 750-800 RPM (for most cars), this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and repair your idle air control valve.
If you was hooking up a OEM cooling fan that has only 2 wires and one speed but my car has a high and low speed, what wires would you hook up?
Hi there. Check the high and low circuits with a digital meter for a voltage reading. The low should have a lower voltage reading than the high. I recommend putting the wires on the high selection to prevent the engine from overheating at any time. If you need further assistance with hooking up your radiator fan motor, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you
Car not speeding up smoothly, service engine light on when first start driving and car vibrating
It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor. The problem this can cause may also be compounded when the engine is cold due to the change in air density in cooler weather. The mass air flow sensor monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. This sensor relays information about fuel and air temperature, air speed entering the motor and many other things to the ECM which uses this to make adjustments to fuel supply to the motor. A dirty or faulty sensor can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This type of inconsistent fuel supply to the motor may cause a hesitation, loss of power, a jerking reaction, potentially a bit of black exhaust smoke and typically a strong smell of fuel when this sensor is malfunctioning. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
Oil leaking from under car and "remote control car" sound when car is first started for a few minutes until it warm up.
There are a number of things that could make an engine noisy when starting up. Depending on the specific type of sound you are referring to, this will determine how to properly diagnose. If there is a bit of a hissing sound, this may be a sign of a vacuum leak. If this is more of a shrieking sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or out of adjustment serpentine belt. If there is a bit of a howling or growling sound, this may be a sign of a worn out or low on fluid power steering pump. A rattling or pinging sound may be caused by an ignition problem. An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). A clattering type sound may be a result of improper lubrication in the valve train which could be a more serious problem and should be addressed as soon as possible. I would suggest having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle to ensure everything is in proper working order.
Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage
There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.
Car making a low noticeable sound at speeds between 55 km/hr to 70km/hr.
Diagnosing ’noises’ remotely is one of the more difficult things to do for any mechanic. However, there are a few things which could cause this noise, ranging from loose motor mounts, loose serpentine or drive belt, pulley’s or even wheel or front end suspension issues. The best way to diagnose any problem is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection; so they can ride with you to attempt and replicate the noise; which will help them pinpoint the source of the noise and recommend the right repairs be completed.