Car shudders whenever I brake at a speed of 60-70 mph

ANSWER : This may be a sign of a dirty or failing mass air flow sensor. The mass air flow sensor is a unit in the intake system that monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. When this fails, this can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This may cause a hesitation, loss of power or jerking reaction when this sensor is malfunctioning. When this is not working properly, you may also notice a strong smell of fuel. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose your mass air flow sensor.

ANSWER : Hi there. Check the engine and transmission mounts on your vehicle. When accelerating quickly, the engine and transmission move around causing the loose or broken mounts to make the engine and transmission move around violently making the front tires to jerk side to side. This will make the vehicle shutter at low speeds and continue until the throttle is matched with the road speed. If you need further assistance with your vehicle shuttering at low speeds, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello. Warning lights accompanied with stalling can be caused by many things. If the oil is low I would go ahead and top it off to prevent the possibility of engine damage, however, it is unlikely that low oil is what caused the stalling. Stalling is most commonly caused by issues with the ignition, engine management, or fuel systems. If one of the components, such as a major sensor, the fuel pump, or the ignition coil, go out or have an issue they can cause the engine to stall. If the vehicle is no longer starting then it may be possible that there is an issue with the electrical system as well, perhaps a faulty battery or alternator. If the alternator goes out it will eventually drain the battery, which could also cause stalling. Scanning the computer for trouble codes, once the vehicle is started, will likely reveal some insight into what the issue may be. As the possibilities could be many, I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location diagnose what may have caused your vehicle to stall.

ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.

ANSWER : The control arm bushings need to be checked. Worn out control arm bushings will change the toe setting at higher speeds, causing the front tires to fight one another. It will also cause a feathering wear to occur on the front tires. If the bushings are fine then a high speed on-the-car balancing of the tires may need to be carried out. If the bushings are worn, special tools are required to press them out of the control arms. You may want to enlist the help of a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect the cause of the vibration. The mechanic will have the ability to inspect the suspension, and the equipment to carry out any necessary repairs.

ANSWER : Hi there. First check the brake fluid and make sure that it’s full and clean. If the brake fluid is black in color and is the original brake fluid in the vehicle, I recommend flushing the brake fluid to remove any moisture from the system and fluid. This will help with the braking efforts. Then if you are still having issues, the master cylinder would need bleed and the system would need bleed for any air trapped in the system. If the fluid is changed and the system is bleed and you still are having a spongy pedal, then the master cylinder is leaking internally and it would need to be replaced. If the brake pedal is hard and very firm like when your engine is shut off, then check the vacuum lines from the engine to the brake booster. If the line is good, check the brake booster check valve for any leakage. If the line and brake booster check valve are good and sealed, then get a stethoscope (without the end only the tubes) and check for any hissing air around the clamped areas of the brake booster and by the firewall near the brake booster while the engine is running. If you hear a hissing noise when the engine is running, then the brake booster would need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brakes not working properly, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Your car seems to have what is called a "limited slip" rear end which controls the amount of power coming from the drive train to ensure that the power is evenly distributed to both wheels. The limited slip clutch packs will chatter a bit when it is low on fluid or the fluid needs to be changed. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to you to have this shaking issue diagnosed and repaired properly.

ANSWER : The vehicle transmission did not get back to the park position due to the shift cable came off of the transmission shift linkage. You will need to have a mechanic like one from YourMechanic come to you and check the shift cable connection at the transmission to see if the shift cable bushing broke and let the cable end disengage from the shift linkage. The shift cable may need replaced if the cable end bushing is not available. I recommend a mechanic check the shift cable and replace cable or repair cable end as parts allow.