Car jerking when idle or acceleration

After filling up car from E to Full my car started jerking when idle or slower speed once at a good steady speed jerking stops I removed the gas and changed o2 sensors w no luck

My car has 159000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello,
It sounds like you may have a problem with your Evaporative emissions control system. Your car has a small purge valve called a purge solenoid that controls the venting of fumes from the fuel tank as these fumes build up inside, particularly when you are refueling the car with gas. The EVAP system prevents fuel vapors from the fuel tank from escaping into the atmosphere. The EVAP system collects and temporarily stores the fuel vapors in the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister is filled with activated carbon pellets that can absorb the fuel vapors. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are purged from the canister and burned in the engine. The vent control valve (solenoid) controls the flow of outside air in and out of the charcoal canister. The vent valve is controlled by the engine computer (PCM). Normally the vent valve is open. It closes when the engine computer tests the EVAP system for leaks. If a leak in the EVAP system is detected, the Check Engine light will illuminate on the dash and the trouble code related to the problem will be stored in the engine computer. When an air leak is present in the EVAP system, the MAP sensor will not be able to determine the air density, and the MAF sensor will not be able to determine the volume of air, entering the engine correctly. This will lead to an over fueling situation or an under fueling situation depending on the size of the air leak and engine operating speeds and load. This may eventually lead to catalytic converter problems as well as misfiring problems. I would recommend having an expert from Your Mechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

What could the problem be? Along with faulty spark plugs, a build-up of dirt and grime is the likely cause of cars stuttering when idle. A clogged filter or fuel injection system can starve your engine of fuel or oxygen, causing your car to judder and shake.
Problems With Your Throttle Pedal, Cable, or Position Sensor

If you are experiencing jerks in your car when accelerating, it might be due to a few reasons. The first reason is that the throttle pedal is not positioned correctly. The second is a result of the throttle cable being too tight or too loose.

Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
If the air/fuel mixture inside the engine becomes too rich, it can disrupt the exhaust, causing car jerks or the accelerator to respond when you press the gas pedal. Other symptoms of a faulty catalytic converter include foul odors and decreased fuel economy.
If you hear your car engine stuttering, then the injectors may not be providing an adequate amount of fuel. To fix this, you should clean the injectors on a regular basis. Using a fuel injector cleaning solution might eliminate the issue of the car jerking.
Potential causes of a vehicle shaking at idle include a loose gas cap, loose battery cables, a worn throttle sensor, a damaged engine mount, or bad spark plugs. Perform a general inspection of your engine bay to look for damage. If you can`t repair the problem yourself, take the vehicle to a mechanic.
Dirty Air Filters

The air filter functions to prevent dirt and debris in the air from entering the engine. If it`s dirty, it could restrict airflow to the engine, thus reducing the amount of oxygen that the engine gets. This causes an uneven oxygen-to-fuel ratio in the engine which leads to misfiring and car jerking.

When your car jerks, stumbles or stutters while driving, it usually means something is interfering with the proper distribution and transfer of power from your transmission. Another example is if you`re driving a manual transmission and haven`t gained the feel of shifting for your particular vehicle.
The more your fuel intake system is clogged, the less efficient your engine uses fuel, which can cause it to shudder when you`re at a stop. Fuel is delivered to your engine by fuel intake valves, and these should be cleaned regularly to prevent clogs and a shaky sit at a red light.
When your car jerks, stumbles or stutters while driving, it usually means something is interfering with the proper distribution and transfer of power from your transmission. Another example is if you`re driving a manual transmission and haven`t gained the feel of shifting for your particular vehicle.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

When accelerating the car begins to jerk real bad.
ANSWER : Usually when the Check Engine Light flashes, it is an indication that you have a severe misfire that may cause damage to the catalytic converter. Most of the time this is due to failing ignition components. That is why it feels jerky. A certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, will be able diagnose your rough driving symptoms and determine the exact cause of your concern.

car shakes when idle and accelerating
ANSWER : It is very possible that you have a valve cover gasket or spark plug tube seal leak on your vehicle. These type of leaks will allow oil to leak onto the spark plugs causing misfires. When the engine misfires due to oil getting on the spark plug, the engine oil will burn. Since oil and tires are both petroleum products, they will both smell similar when they are burning. I would recommend having an oil leak inspection performed by a qualified professional to determine if there is an oil leak. Consider YourMechanic as an Oil/Fluid leak inspection can be peformed at your home or office.

My car has a rough idle when I start my car, when I stop at a light my car turns off. Is it the purge sensor?
ANSWER : This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and repair your idle air control valve.

Car starts, idles rough, stalls when accelerating past 2000 rpm.
ANSWER : The odor of gas is due to misfiring. Check engine compression and check for any exhaust restriction preferably by measuring exhaust back pressure but you can also infer exhaust back pressure by testing engine vacuum. If compression is good and there is no back pressure, the other usual suspects are clogged fuel injectors (remove from fuel rail and send out for cleaning; cleaning injectors on a car is a waste of time because each injector has an internal replaceable filter basket that MUST be replaced), the throttle position sensor, the throttle body, EGR and vacuum leaks, and so forth. It would probably save you time and perhaps needless expense in parts replacement if you request a rough running diagnostic. if you were to request such a diagnostic from YourMechanic, the protocol is pretty standard: a certified mechanic will test for ignition, fuel system, air induction and/or engine sensor problems and these possibilities are tested, in a sequence, using a diagnostic "decision tree". Often, the problem is limited and straightforward, that is easily repairable. There is a good chance of that so I recommend that you request a rough running diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will travel right to your location and get this diagnosed and resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic.

Why does my car jerk & accelerate by its self?
ANSWER : From what you’ve described, the jerking is most likely due to a misfire or a vacuum leak on the engine. You should have all the spark plugs and wires checked for misfiring after your computer is scanned for a misfire code.

You may have a leaking valve cover getting oil on the plugs and wires. Another possibility is that the engine may have a vacuum leak, causing the high idle and even the misfire if no other problems are found. A proper diagnostic should be done if any engine codes are present.

If you need help with getting this fixed, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the misfire firsthand for an accurate repair. Best of luck.

My car is jerking. When I plug in the idling sensor, especially after driving a few kilimeters and when I unplug it, the car travels well
ANSWER : Hi – it is quite possible your engine is running in "open loop" when the idle sensor is disconnected, simply because the engine computer realizes that a crucial sensor is missing. By design, open loop running will be a richer mixture, with poor fuel economy. The idle sensor has no real purpose once the car is driving at most any speed. When the idle sensor is plugged back in, the computer is trying to adjust fuel mixture as it should, but other sensor problems (which should be setting the Check Engine Light) are overwhelming it. Check for the problem codes being set, and diagnosis will become easier.

Hesitation on acceleration, Jerking idle
ANSWER : This vehicle has had many issues with the wiring harness on these vehicles causing many different problems. Possible issues are the cooling fans, transmission, engine sensors and other many other issues. This could account for your problems that are intermittent. The wiring harness connectors on the entire engine will need to be disconnected, inspected for corrosion, loose pins and bare wires and then the connections put back together with some connector corrosion inhibitor. I recommend having a certified mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, come to you and see what codes are in the computer and diagnose the problem for you.

High idling, jumping while idling, idle air control valve code
ANSWER : Hi there. This can be caused by the issues that you mentioned or a number of other things. You need to make sure all of the connectors are making good contact. I would then need to know what codes are in the computer to know if this is a circuit issue or not. Most of the time, it is not the circuit but instead a vacuum leak.

If there is a vacuum leak, then the vehicle will act like this and the computer cannot control the idle. Most of the time it is a bad hose or an EGR valve that is stuck open. That is the most common cause for this. I typically remove the EGR to check it to feel the diaphragm on the bottom of it to see if it is moving correctly. If you need to have this repaired, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair your car’s idling issue.