Car is reading trouble code PO136 01/01

ANSWER : Once a trouble code is erased, it cannot be retrieved. The engine controller does not have a "recycle bin" like they have on Windows. If the car still has a problem, the code will come back up after some driving. However, the controller will not turn on the CEL until it has seen the malfunction on two separate "trips." A "trip" is a driving cycle where the car is started cold, driven until it is fully warm and through a certain number of accelerations, and shut down. So you might not see the CEL for a couple of days. As for the "head gasket sealer," I wouldn’t hold out too much hope of that solving a problem. At the very best it might put off the symptoms for a short while. If you need help interpreting codes that come up, or solving a head gasket issue, contact Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to read the codes on your car and help you decide what to do.

ANSWER : Hi. There could be a couple of things going on here. There are multiple oxygen sensors on your car and sometimes what we think bank 1 is may not be and the wrong oxygen sensor is replaced giving us the same P0136 code as before.

Another possible causes is the part that you have could be defective from the parts store and cause the code to come back after replacement. Fords are also know to throw oxygen sensor codes when the car has a vacuum leak in the engine or loose or broken vacuum lines.

To avoid any unnecessary repairs, I suggest you have a certified technician from YourMechanic come to your home and further diagnosis your car’s trouble code.

ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you

ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.

ANSWER : Hi there – "boundary measured engine temperature," or the lowest temp reading a sensor can transmit, can be different based on each temperature sensor. The issue here is what is the true engine temperature? Is the thermostat getting the engine up to its design temperature (something near 205 degrees Fahrenheit/100 Centigrade). Can you cross-check the engine temperature with a laser thermometer, cockpit temperature gauge (middle of the gauge usually), or other measuring device? If the engine is truly coming up to 200 degrees (F) or so, then yes, the ECT can read "low" to the computer, causing rich mixture running. This could cause a low catalytic converter efficiency problem if the engine has run rich for a while.

ANSWER : With the car idling for an extended period, your engine compartment will get extra hot and this may cause the ignition module to fail, resulting in a stalled engine that will not restart. In order to determine whether the ignition module has failed or another ignition component is at fault, you will need to check to see if your coil is giving out a strong spark. If you are not getting any spark, then the coil wires will need to be tested. Check to see if the coil is getting power on the red wire with the key in the on position, and then check for a pulsing power on the green wire using a test light. If you are not getting any spark out of the coil, but do have pulse power to the coil’s green wire when the vehicle is cranked, then you will need to replace the ignition coil. If there is not any pulse power getting to the coil, then you will need to replace the ignition module. If you still cannot determine which component is at fault, then contact a mobile mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, to continue the diagnosis of your no start condition.

ANSWER : Prior to buying any car, drive the car around and listen for any noises. Then do an inspection on the vehicle to make sure that it is safe to drive. All cars will need maintenance, but if the car was kept up, then the maintenance should be to a minimum.

ANSWER : If you have the electronic type throttle that has no cable to the throttle body, then you will need to check to make sure that battery voltage is not dropping below 12.5 volts when your A/C is turned on. You will need to have the charging system checked to make sure it is putting out above 13.2 volts at idle and the amperage at 1500 is within specified range of 87 amps and that the voltage does not drop below 13.5 with no load.

You may be overloading the alternator with the stereo amps you have and causing the battery voltage to drop too low at idle causing the throttle actuator to not work correctly. The A/C takes about 20 amps of power to run and if you are already taking more than the alternator can put out at idle, then the only place to get the power is from the battery. The battery is rated in AMPs not volts. You put a heavier duty battery that has more amp capacity and if the alternator cannot replace the power taken away, then the voltage will drop in the battery until it gets below the 12 volts needed to power the electronics in the car and there’s where you will start to have problems. If you want to have this diagnosed in person, a technician from YourMechanic can inspect your Check Engine Light and let you know exactly what will need fixing.