Can I Use a Universal Switch in My Car?
Can I use a universal switch in my car?
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
This is an open ended question when determining what exactly a universal switch really is. Many switches whether factory or OEM (original equipment manufacturer) replacements are designed to meet or exceed the original specifications. Some factors to keep in mind would be the type of switch being considered and how it is connected or attached to the vehicle. There are many aftermarket switches which can be added to turn on non factory add ons, such as fog lights, light bars, additional horns etc. These SPST (single pole, single throw) switches can be a rocker style of an on/off position type.
Often the factor in selecting a switch comes down to the actual application and area it will be installed in when in use. A universal switch to turn on your headlights could work but may not fit into the dash location where the original switch was positioned and they also lack the complexity of the units used in modern cars and trucks.
Generally, these universal switches are used in specific to add on applications for older vehicles. You may need to modify your dash or mount location to accept the new switch. Another factor is the rating of the switch. All circuits are designed to handle the current (amperage) that the circuit will generally flow during it operation. Every part of the circuit is calculated into this equation to keep the component from overheating. So besides meeting the physical application, the switch needs to meet the electrical specifications.
Without knowing exactly what switch or circuit you would want to replace with a universal switch I can not advise you further on the use of a universal switch. I would add that it is the best practice to use the factory part or an approved OEM replacement that is designed to meet or exceed the original application. This will help you avoid operational issues and possible circuit damage. A headlight switch for example has multiple functions and is specific to the vehicle so replacement would require
the factory style part. It has to operate the parking lights, headlight low, high beam circuit, as well as a flash to pass position. A lot of light systems are auto illumination.
You can see from the example of the different switches that they are not compatible. For example, other switches with specific types and functions would include the horn, turn signals, blower motor, power windows, neutral safety, and ignition switch. The best advice is to have the correct switch installed to insure that accurate factory performance is restored to your vehicle.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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You can replace the ignition switch yourself, but it`s not an easy task: you will have to remove the steering wheel and work close to the airbag – which can be dangerous. Don`t hesitate to call a professional mechanic if you`re not feeling confident.
Located on the steering wheel on the column or dash area, the switch is the key to getting your car to start. The key is inserted to let you turn the switch from off to on, accessory, and start. Most vehicles today have keys that have a built-in chip that communicates with the vehicle`s computer.
Yes, you can. The ignition switch is separate from the EWS system, so replacing the switch will still allow you to use the current keys you already have. Only if you have to replace a faulty key or EWS module will you have to possibly order all new keys.
Dismantle the plastic cover below the steering wheel which houses all the electronics. Then insert a screwdriver into the ignition flaps and force it in using a hammer or by using a drill first. Then turn the screwdriver in the same direction you would as the car key. This will start the car.
The ignition lock cylinder and ignition switch are not the same thing. The lock cylinder is the mechanical tumbler your key slides into; the switch is the electrical portion that sends power to the vehicle. On many cars, these are two separate components that can be repaired individually.
Engine won`t crank. If the electrical contacts inside the switch have failed, turning the key to crank the engine might not result in any response at all. Engine starts and stalls.
Part cost: $60 to $100. Labor charges: $75 to $150. Total replacement cost: $135 to $250.
Use a portable jump starter or use another car to jumpstart your vehicle. Either with a portable jump starter or with a jumper cable connected to another car. It`s pretty easy to jumpstart your vehicle. All you have to do is connect to identify the ignition coil and the battery.
Several factors affect the key replacement cost, ranging from $50 to $500. The final sum depends on the key type because each has a different replacement procedure.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have changed the car battery on my Renault Grand Scenic and used the car that day on the sunday. However 3 days later the car wo
Hello, thank you for writing in. If the new battery has also failed to hold a charge, the alternator is likely not working correctly. You can test the alternator at home with a voltmeter, or you can remove it and have it tested at most automotive parts stores. It will need to be replaced if it has failed. You will also want to make sure all of the electrical connections are clean, dry, and tight. For more help testing or replacing the alternator, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.
If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Should I buy this car for $1700
Prior to buying any car, drive the car around and listen for any noises. Then do an inspection on the vehicle to make sure that it is safe to drive. All cars will need maintenance, but if the car was kept up, then the maintenance should be to a minimum.
I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you
I have a kill switch on my car and the remote broke and I can’t find how to disconnect the kill switch. It’s an aftermarket
Hey there. If the system is an aftermarket type, then you would need to have the entire system removed or the system replaced with a new system. These systems all hook up a little different and only after looking at the install can a mechanic remove it and put the wiring back to original connections so you can start and run the vehicle. You may consider consulting with the shop were you originally got the part or the manufacturer so that they can assist you further with this.
No power. Only uses bank 2 to fire
Hi there. It would be helpful to know the year of the car in this case to supply the most accurate information. If it were the map sensor, then it would affect all cylinders. Try checking the spark plugs for damage or signs of wear.
Which timing was off, ignition or camshaft timing? I’m going to assume it was the camshaft timing since modern vehicles don’t typically have adjustable ignition timing. Assuming it is camshaft timing, it is very likely the valves in the inactive cylinders have been bent. You can check this by putting compressed air into the cylinder with the piston on top dead center.
This is commonly called a cylinder leak down test. Ideally you should only use about 50 psi. Much more and the piston will move and open the valves. The valves need to be closed for this test to be accurate. If you must use shop pressures of 90 to 150 psi, hold the crankshaft by whatever method you can devise.
Once you have the piston at top dead center with compressed air in the cylinder, listen at the tail pipe, intake manifold with the throttle valve open and in the crank case. Usually the best place to listen in the crank case is by removing the oil filler cap. You are listening for the hissing sound of air passing past the intake and exhaust valves or the piston rings in the case of the crank case. If you here an obvious hiss, you have a leak in one of the mentioned parts.
Bent valves are very common when camshaft timing becomes off. This car has VVT (variable valve timing). With this in mind you should make sure that the camshaft is timed correctly.
If you should require further help getting this taken care of, have a certified professional diagnose the loss of power issue for you so that this can be properly addressed.
Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage
There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.
My car is Renault megane 2003 model manual, my problem is the car stooped it self in the road light & it cant start now.
Hello and thanks for contacting YourMechanic. There are 3 things that could cause the symptoms that you are currently experiencing. One is the ignition coils getting too hot and failing.
The second is the trigger to the ignition coils could be cutting out. The camshaft and crankshaft sensors are what control the trigger to the ignition coils. If one of the sensors are not responding correctly, then the trigger may get dropped by the computer. The computer would shut down the engine to prevent any problems.
The third problem that could effect this issue is a faulty neutral safety switch on the clutch. Check the harness and wires to the switch on the clutch and see if they are clean and free from corrosion. Make sure that the switch is not binding up or sticking. I recommend replacing the neutral safety switch, then retesting. If the system continues, then replace the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. If the symptoms are still present, then the computer is locking the trigger out and shutting off the engine. Then you would need to flash or replace the computer. If you would like to have an expert scope this out in person, a qualified professional from YourMechanic can diagnose the stalling issue and let you know exactly what needs repair.