All my dashboard lights come on and my car stops and won’t let you continue until you shut it off and on again

out of nowhere my car dashboard lights just all come on and it will brake by itself and if i try to continue it won't let me. I have to shut it off for it to clear up and itll let me continue

My car has 164000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello, thank you for writing in. The warning lights and loss of power that you are having are typically triggered by a major malfunction. The braking and unresponsive throttle are both safety features to keep the vehicle from putting you in a more dangerous situation. The problem causing all of this needs to be diagnosed, and the easiest way is to start by scanning the vehicle for diagnostic codes. This can be done by a technician or at most automotive parts stores. From there, we can focus in on what ever system is triggering the "limp mode". Corrective action can be taken from there. For more help with this process and with making the repair, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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When one of the signals is abnormal, the car will revert to limp mode to prevent further damage. Problems which cause signals like this are usually faulty engine sensors/components/wiring, transmission issues, dysfunctional brakes and clutch, or even low fluid levels.
That`s your traction control. If it`s lit, it means traction control has been deactivated. If it flashes, it means the traction control is active. Normally it flashes when your wheels spin in ice.
In short, limp mode is your BMW`s way of protecting your engine and transmission. When the engine or transmission control unit, called an ABS, detects faulty functioning, the malfunction code is stored in the device and is then assessed to determine the severity of the issue.
How to get your car out of limp mode. You may be able to reset the car by switching it off and on again after about 30 seconds. If the warning lights disappear and the car behaves normally, then it may have just been a temporary glitch.
Speed sensors, the MAF, MPS and TPS; to name just a few of the essential monitors within your engine. All of these send signals to the control units, so as with faulty wiring, if one of these monitoring units is not functioning correctly, then it could send a message that causes the car to enter limp mode.
The computer may have run out of the battery power used to store important information. If this isn`t computing correctly, the engine will sense a problem and trigger limp mode.
This indicator lets you know that there`s a Critical Warning Message that you need to read as soon as possible, but it doesn`t actually indicate a specific problem. Really, the triangle with an exclamation point is a catch-all warning light, designed to alert you to issues that your other lights won`t catch!
Limp mode is meant to give your car just enough power to drive home (or to the nearest repair shop) without causing severe damage to the engine or transmission. You can bypass limp mode by restarting your car, topping off fluids, or resetting the battery.
Limp mode can also be masking a severe problem, which, if left unchecked through fear of an expensive repair job, can put you and others in danger. However, as mentioned before, the warning light may be down to something trivial, but don`t take the risk, take it to a professional repairer as early as possible.
The limp mode is activated if the engine doesn`t get sufficient air. Cleaning or replacing these might be the only thing you need to do to take your car out of limp mode. Check trouble codes. You can adequately diagnose the problem with an OBD2 scanner to check for the trouble codes stored in the car`s control unit.
Most alternators have an internal voltage regulator. If the voltage regulator fails, it will cause the PCM to not function properly and in turn cause the problems you were experiencing, such as the vehicle going into LIMP mode.
Can an O2 Sensor even throw the car into limp? If it`s throwing the code for the o2 sensor it won`t go into limp mode, since the ecu recognizes a problem with the sensor it disregards that input.
In the case of the throttle body (and related sensor), delayed to false information can cause the computer to make faulty corrections to the air-fuel mixture. You might notice a switch into “limp-home” mode, where the power to the car`s engine noticeably reduced power is reduced no matter how hard you press the pedal.
in some cases, a failing or faulty tps can cause the engine to go into what`s called limp-home mode. this is a safety feature that recognizes a faulty sensor that could cause damage to the engine or drivetrain. in this situation, you will experience reduced engine power, and you may be stuck in a higher gear.
Cylinders: If your battery is not functioning properly, the fuel injectors may not deliver enough fuel to the cylinders. This can cause a reduction in vehicle performance. Computer: A weak battery puts additional strain on the vehicle`s electrical and mechanical systems.
With some exceptions, the warning symbol is a required element of safe harbor warning content. The symbol consists of a black exclamation point in a yellow equilateral triangle with a bold, black outline.
The yellow oil warning light comes on when either the oil temperature gets too high, or the oil level or pressure is too low. If the oil is not lubricating the engine effectively, it could lead to expensive or even irreparable engine damage, so it`s important to act quickly.
The check engine light is usually the most serious and feared warning because of the kind of damage it can signal. This warning often indicates the potential for serious engine damage. When ignored, your vehicle could suffer from a blown head gasket or a seized engine.
When all your dashboard lights turn on at once, it most commonly indicates an issue with the alternator or the charging system. It is common for all the dash lights to come on with no alternator output; low voltage can cause unusual electrical issues. The alternator should be tested at the time of battery replacement.
Clear the check engine light

Use a reliable OBD2 scan tool to clear fault codes and reset limp mode. Just plug into your OBD2 port and search for the correct function.

One of the most common reasons a car goes into limp mode is a problem with the fuel system. If the fuel pump isn`t working properly or there is a blockage in the fuel lines, the engine may not be getting enough fuel. This can cause it to run rough and eventually go into limp mode.
Check fluid levels – Low engine oil, transmission fluid, or coolant levels can sometimes trigger limp mode. Check the levels and top off if necessary.
When an alternator fails, electricity and lights in your car will lose power, and your battery will not charge properly. It`s important to recognize signs of a failing alternator.
One of the most common causes of the P0562 code is a faulty or broken alternator or voltage regulator. If the alternator isn`t functioning correctly, this will cause an excessive drain of the battery and voltage levels.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

All my dashboard lights come on and my car stops and won’t let you continue until you shut it off and on again
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The warning lights and loss of power that you are having are typically triggered by a major malfunction. The braking and unresponsive throttle are both safety features to keep the vehicle from putting you in a more dangerous situation. The problem causing all of this needs to be diagnosed, and the easiest way is to start by scanning the vehicle for diagnostic codes. This can be done by a technician or at most automotive parts stores. From there, we can focus in on what ever system is triggering the "limp mode". Corrective action can be taken from there. For more help with this process and with making the repair, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

Car won’t start. The check engine light, battery light, and oil change light are coming on. I tried jumping the car and nothing happened. Why won’t my car start?
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If sometimes your vehicle will start with the new alternator and sometimes it won’t, then there is a loose connection in your charging system. Check all of the wires to the alternator and to the battery. Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure that the wires to the starter are clean and tight. A loose ground to the ignition system will cause the vehicle to not crank over. Check all of the ground wires from the battery to the starter. Make sure that they are clean and tight. If you need further assistance troubleshooting your no start situation, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you.

Low coolant light comes on when AC, defrost or heater is on, but only if the car is in gear and stopped, what’s wrong with my car?
ANSWER : First, you want to make sure your cooling system is full. Check the radiator not the coolant jug. And check it when it is cold. If it needs coolant, add some. Of course, I don’t feel this problem is an actual low coolant condition. I would expect to find an electrical failure in the instrument cluster or from a component or wiring harness that is connected to the instrument cluster.

As a technician, I have access to reports from technicians across the country. I could not find any reports of this problem, so diagnosing this will require an experienced tech as this is not a common problem. In addition, this happens at intermittent times making it difficult to recreate. The most challenging part of this diagnosis will be recreating the symptom. I suspect it has something to do with the brake switch circuitry because it only seems to happen when you have your foot on the brake. I would begin my diagnosis there with a wiring diagram and test light in hand. The brake switch, instrument cluster, and environmental controls all interact with each other. Something is crossed either because of a failed module or damaged wiring in a harness.

Aside from making sure the coolant is full, this will not likely leave you on the side of the road. If you take it in to be diagnosed, be prepared for them to spend more time than usual to figure it out. Since it isn’t a key problem, you may need to live with it until it completely fails making it much easier to diagnose. Either way, I do recommend having a certified mechanic diagnose the warning light to make sure there isn’t anything serious going on.

Good luck.

Whenever I drive 1.5 miles, the s3 light starts blinking and then when I stop my car and come back to it, the car won’t start.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. It is difficult to determine the issue without some more information. To start, when the check engine light illuminates, you want to scan the vehicle for diagnostic codes. These are what set the check engine light off, and are meant to tell the driver what the computer has detected is wrong. Codes can be pulled at most automotive parts stores, and by most technicians. Once you have that information you can focus in on one component or system. If the engine is truly overheating, then you want to start by checking your coolant and fluid levels. For more help with diagnosing and resolving the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

My car stalls at times, yesterday the car shut off at a red light. I turned car off then back on now engine light is on.
ANSWER : This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and replace your idle air control valve.

My car runs for about 30 minutes then when I come to a stop the oil and battery light turned on and car shuts off what could it be
ANSWER : Hi There,
It is normal for the oil and battery lights to come on when the car stalls. When the engine is not running and the key is in the ON position, you will see these lights light up as the car’s computer prepares itself to operate by running through a series of checks. The stalling and then re-starting after the vehicle has a chance to cool is likely related to a faulty ignition coil. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly. The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This type of temperature cycling happens because every time you shut the engine off, the fan stops running, the coolant stops flowing and the temperature under the hood rises. Every time you start the engine again the coolant flows, the fans turn on, and the temperature drops. When this heat dissipates and is absorbed under the hood, it is trapped causing this cycling effect. Other components that contain heat sensitive materials include parts like fuel injectors, igniters, and some sensors. Any of these may be potentially subject to this same kind of heat cycling problem which can be very difficult to trace. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your vehicle.

Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Why do my interior lights dim when stopping and car intermittently shuts off at stop light. 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer
ANSWER : Hello. This can be caused by a number of things. Most of the time if this only occurs when coming to a stop it is because the computer is not maintaining a high enough idle. This can occur because of a failing throttle body, or a problem within the engine or an intake manifold leak. This engine does have a common issue with valve seats failing causing an idling issue. I would usually start by cleaning out the throttle body to see if that corrects it. If it does not then the throttle body may need to be replaced. If the idle speed is fine then you may have a bad connection. I have seen a lot of grounding issues. Most of the time it is because of a bad ground on the engine or a bad connection at the battery ground cable. All of these need to be cleaned and tightened. If you need some assistance with this, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to you to [diagnose why the electrical system is acting like this] https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/electric-problems-inspection