After hour or so driving, engine starts to sputter as if not receiving fuel. Stop for 10 mins and it runs fine.

After driving for an hour or so ( usually over an hour) the engine will start to sputter and lurch. First time i smelled fuel, looked around found fuel filter leaking( which was from 2003). I installed new one and now will go for longer before it starts acting up. I also replaced fuel pump relay switch because it was old figured couldn't hurt. ( have no clue if. Both are correlated) It starts up and runs strong up until that point. If i pull over and waitbfor about 10 minutes it will again drive great till about an hour in. Also my Air Fan only runs on High. Air will still come out on othe
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The stalling could be due to a heat induced failure of the ignition coil. Resistance of electrical components increases with temperature and if the coil is the issue that is why the stalling only occurs once the engine is hot. The coil could be tested now and/or during an instance of stalling to see if that is the cause. Heat related failures are also possible in the crank and cam position sensors and possibility the engine coolant temperature sensor. Another possibility is a failing fuel pump. In the NHTSA database for this vehicle I do see a non negligible number of similar stalling reports from other consumers but no clear indication of the cause. Of concern, I also see vehicle fires reported so it’s good you fixed that fuel filter. Check the condition of your power steering hoses as failure of those hoses has been implicated in Caravan fires. With regard to the blower motor failure, you may have a defective blower motor resistor block. The stalling can be dealt with by requesting a stalling diagnostic and the resistor block can be diagnosed, and replaced if necessary, by requesting blower motor service – resistor block. If you request these services, the responding certified mechanic will get both of these issues resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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One of the most common causes of a sputtering engine is an issue with the vehicle`s fuel system—the filter, pump, and injectors. These three critical components work together to ensure fuel flows smoothly from the fuel tank to your engine`s fuel injectors, and then pumps into the engine evenly.
Fuel Injectors

The fuel injectors deliver the fuel to the combustion chamber where it can be set on fire. The most common problem with fuel injectors is they get clogged by carbon deposits. If your fuel injectors are clogged, your engine is not getting enough gasoline, and it will sputter and threaten to stall.

A sputtering engine may just mean you need to have your fuel filter replaced. All vehicles have a series of vacuum hoses that create the fuel pressure. If one of them leaks or is damaged in any way, you will lose significant fuel pressure. The vehicle`s exhaust system can greatly impact the engine`s performance.
This is usually caused by a leaky fuel injector. The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start.
A car that idles rough but drives smooth may be due to broken motor mounts. The purpose of motor mounts is in the name! These cylindrical components are what keep your engine in place. Broken or weak mounts are unable to support the engine properly, creating a vibration at idle.
A common cause is a problem with the spark plugs or ignition system. Other potential causes include a blockage in the fuel line, a faulty oxygen sensor, or a problem with the mass air flow sensor. Vacuum leakages can also cause a delay in acceleration. A clogged air filter or low engine oil level can also be a cause.
The main cause of engine stall at high temperature is rapid fuel boiling by increasing fuel temperature. This causes a lot of vapor. Such vapor flows into the fuel pump which leading to decrease the pump load and the current consumption of the fuel pump continuously. This ultimately results in engine stall.
If your car hesitates or sputters at a low RPM, you could be dealing with an issue with your engine`s air filter or there could be an issue with your fuel filter, injector, or pump. The best thing you can do is take your car to a mechanic so they can properly diagnose the issue and repair it.
Engine Misfires

Perhaps the single most common cause of rough idle comes in the form of a misfiring engine. As you may know, any automotive engine contains multiple cylinders. Each of these cylinders contributes to powering your car by combusting a mixture of gasoline and air.

Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced.
The most common sensor which can lead to your car stalling is the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) or the mass air flow sensor (MAF). Most cars typically have one or the other.
If your car stalls, then it means the engine has stopped working for any number of reasons. This can be the result of a mechanical issue or a problem with the air or fuel the car is receiving. Your car can stall in pretty much any situation.
Dirty or bad spark plugs won`t cleanly ignite the fuel causing the vehicle to misfire or sputter. You`ll either need to replace or have them cleaned. Because engine sputtering is a symptom of something more serious, it`s important to rely on an experienced mechanic to diagnose and repair the problem.
So, if your car starts stuttering, there`s a good chance there`s an issue with your spark plugs (or the cables attached to them). It`s not unusual for these car parts to wear out, and a faulty spark plug will cause your engine to misfire and jerk when you accelerate and for your engine to be much louder than usual.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

After hour or so driving, engine starts to sputter as if not receiving fuel. Stop for 10 mins and it runs fine.
ANSWER : The stalling could be due to a heat induced failure of the ignition coil. Resistance of electrical components increases with temperature and if the coil is the issue that is why the stalling only occurs once the engine is hot. The coil could be tested now and/or during an instance of stalling to see if that is the cause. Heat related failures are also possible in the crank and cam position sensors and possibility the engine coolant temperature sensor. Another possibility is a failing fuel pump. In the NHTSA database for this vehicle I do see a non negligible number of similar stalling reports from other consumers but no clear indication of the cause. Of concern, I also see vehicle fires reported so it’s good you fixed that fuel filter. Check the condition of your power steering hoses as failure of those hoses has been implicated in Caravan fires. With regard to the blower motor failure, you may have a defective blower motor resistor block. The stalling can be dealt with by requesting a stalling diagnostic and the resistor block can be diagnosed, and replaced if necessary, by requesting blower motor service – resistor block. If you request these services, the responding certified mechanic will get both of these issues resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Engine does not start after fueling
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like your car’s evaporative emissions system may have some problems. The EVAP system prevents fuel vapors from the fuel tank from escaping into the atmosphere as you are fueling your car and while the fuel just sits in the tank. The EVAP system collects and temporarily stores the fuel vapors in the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister is filled with activated carbon pellets that can absorb the fuel vapors. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are purged from the canister and burned in the engine. The vent control valve (solenoid) controls the flow of outside air in and out of the charcoal canister. When this is not working properly, you may experience the gas pump shutting off prematurely causing it to take a very long time to fill up your fuel tank. This is due to the excess fuel vapor that is present when the purge solenoid is not working properly by releasing these vapors. The gas pumps at the fuel station have automatic sensors on them (for safety reasons) that shut off automatically when too much fuel vapor is present. I would recommend having an expert from Your Mechanic come to your home to take a look at your car to diagnose your EVAP purge solenoid.

Can front wheel drive car engine power rear wheel drive
ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.

Fuel pump engages. Batery good, alternator good volts, jump start helps when wont start. Temp does not matter. Intermittent?
ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

New battery & fuel pump. Hours later car starts and shuts down 3X in a row. Finally it starts, 48 hours later, won’t start at all
ANSWER : Checking all the fuses was a good move. I would also want to put a scan tool on it and check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) as well as seeing the data that the computer is seeing.

A fuel pressure test would be a good idea to verify correct pressure and so that you’d be able to eliminate that possibility. It should be 58psi on your Magnum.

I also recommend getting your battery tested (I know, it’s new, have it tested anyway) and be sure it’s charged to at least 75%. And yes, loose battery cable connections can result in electrical problems.

If you need some assistance with this, consider enlisting a certified mechanic who can perform the checks I’ve mentioned and diagnose your starting issue firsthand. The mechanic can then perform the necessary repairs once the problem has been isolated. Good luck.

engine sputtering in the rain and having a harder time starting in the cold recently
ANSWER : Consistent occurrence of poor operation during periods of high humidity is a clear sign of current leakage in the ignition system. Such leakage can occur as moisture provides an unintended path to ground on the high tension spark plug wires and could even originate at the coil on account of corrosion and rust (both attract more moisture) in the coil terminals. The contacts on the coil should be inspected as well as the coil itself and it might not be a bad idea to proactively replace the spark plug wires, which don’t last forever anyway. These wires are presently 15 years old on your vehicle if they are original. What I would recommend is a diagnostic for the sputtering during which the aforementioned possibilities will be examined as well as quite a few other possibilities, too.

I have a truck that won’t run and is not getting gas to the engine. Fuel pump is running, have a new filter and new fuel pressure
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a clogged fuel injector or potentially a faulty injector that is fried internally. I would suggest testing them if you have access to a multi meter. Disconnect the injector from the electrical connector and set your multi meter to Ohms mode and measure the resistance of the injector. After testing all injectors, compare the resistance. They should be the same or very close. If they are not, they will likely need to be replaced.

Starts fine but immediately when I turn off the engine, it won’t start again until I count to 60 and then it starts and runs fine. Repeats.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. The problem is most likely caused by the ignition control module. It would need to be verified by inspecting the spark when the problem happens. If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.