After driving home from work the car died on the driveway.

After driving home from work the car died on the driveway. It started back up and idled, but died putting into gear. Tried several times. After roughly 30 minutes I was able to put the car in the garage. Is it safe to drive?

My car has 54000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello. There are several conditions which may be causing this condition, and all of them can likely come back with additional driving. Perhaps an electrical component is getting too hot and failing: crankshaft/camshaft position sensor or ignition module, or possibly the fuel pump is worn and failing – although with your low mileage, that should not be an issue. There is a Nissan Technical Service Bulletin (361538) relating to extended cranking (without starting) for your model. Reprogramming of the engines computer is the solution. I would contact your Nissan dealer first to see if this TSB applies to your vehicle, and if so, have the fix applied before further diagnosis or repair is pursued.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The most likely issue is that a component is clogged. A clogged fuel filter is the most common reason, although a loss of power in your car could also indicate problems with the fuel pump or fuel line. Impurities or debris may be blocking the system, which causes the loss of power in a car.
If the torque converter is broken, or if there is a low fluid level in the transmission, the converter will not do its job, and the car will be unable to maintain power at low speeds, which causes the engine to shut off.
The most common and obvious reason your car may start then die is the fuel shortage in your engine. This happens because there`s not enough fuel in the fuel rail, and there`s no fuel pressure to keep the engine alive. The reason isn`t always you forgetting to fill up your gas tank.
For the reverse stalling condition, check the Idle Air Control Valve and see if its plugged up. If a IAC valve is plugged up, an engine will stall out when going into gear and could cause issues when slowing down. For the steering and stalling issue, check the power steering fluid and see if its low.
Malfunctioning spark plugs can make an engine stop for a while and resume its normal functioning. It can happen when you are driving. The engine can also sound rough when idle. The misfires affect the proper functioning of your car`s engine due to failing spark plugs that have no power to ignite the fuel-air mixture.
Stalling. When your transmission doesn`t have enough fluid, you may experience it stalling at red lights or stop signs. Though it should start right back up, taking your car to an auto shop for repair is key as your transmission lines may be leaking and may need to be replaced.
The most common reason is simply running out of gas. However, if you have a full tank of fuel, and your car still dies, then there is more to it than a lack of gas. You might have a clogged filter or a bad fuel pump, for example. Both of these issues prevent your engine from getting enough fuel.
A failing fuel pump is one of the faults that can cause this. Other likely problems would be the battery, alternator, battery cable, wiring harness fault, crank or camshaft position sensor. The fuel pump may have been replaced because it was not turning on.
There are several possible reasons for a vehicle to crank and not start. A bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, faulty injectors, bad ecu, failed ignition coil, or a malfunctioning sensor. It will first be necessary to figure out if there is a lack of spark, low/no fuel pressure, or a mechanical problem.
There are several possible reasons for a vehicle to crank and not start. A bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, faulty injectors, bad ecu, failed ignition coil, or a malfunctioning sensor. It will first be necessary to figure out if there is a lack of spark, low/no fuel pressure, or a mechanical problem.
This is normally caused by one the following issues: Defective battery. Bad alternator. A blown fuse.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

After driving home from work the car died on the driveway.
ANSWER : Hello. There are several conditions which may be causing this condition, and all of them can likely come back with additional driving. Perhaps an electrical component is getting too hot and failing: crankshaft/camshaft position sensor or ignition module, or possibly the fuel pump is worn and failing – although with your low mileage, that should not be an issue. There is a Nissan Technical Service Bulletin (361538) relating to extended cranking (without starting) for your model. Reprogramming of the engines computer is the solution. I would contact your Nissan dealer first to see if this TSB applies to your vehicle, and if so, have the fix applied before further diagnosis or repair is pursued.

i was driving and my oil light kept going off. Car had oil. Car wouldn’t accelerate. Car died. It does not turn engine over now.
ANSWER : It is very possible that the engine has been damaged beyond repair. Usually when the oil light goes on and the vehicle is low on oil, especially when a loud noise is heard right before the vehicle died, it is very likely that the engine is blown and would require replacement in order to continue driving the vehicle. I would recommend having the vehicle checked with a no start inspection. Consider YourMechanic as this service can be completed at your home or office.

Car died while driving so I replaced the alternator and battery and car won’t attempt to turn over. What else could it be?
ANSWER : The initial failure was likely caused by a sudden fuel system (e.g., failed fuel pump) or electrical (including ignition) faiure. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the starter motor is not functioning, check for power to the starter motor when the key is held in the "start" position. If there a large voltage drop at the starter motor or no power at all, you may have a faulty ignition switch but you do have to check out the entire starter circuit, which includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. On the other hand, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

My truck died while driving. Now will start, but dies when I push brake. If I start in neutral, I can put in drive and go but dies – 2003 Ford F250
ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

How long can a car run like when driving back and forth from work when battery saver mode is on? I plan to have it checked after w
ANSWER : The primary function of the battery is to start the vehicle. Once it is running, the alternator provides the electrical needs of the engine, lights,radio,heater,etc. If the alternator is faulty and not producing power, these systems will draw power from the battery. Since the battery can’t recharge itself – the alternator keeps it charged – the battery will eventually die and the vehicle will shut down. It is difficult to predict how long the vehicle will run on battery power alone. Everything you use – lights, signals, heater, wipers,etc – will all draw more power from the battery and drain it quickly. Cold temperatures will also shorten the amount of time the battery will last under those conditions. The vehicle may run for mere minutes, or maybe an hour or more.

can i drive my car home from work when i found out i had a misfiring cylinder this morning?
ANSWER : A misfire can be caused by several components and if you should drive it depends on the issue that is occurring. Most likely if you made it to work without any major issues, you can make it back home. It depends on how poorly the engine was running, and how far away from home you are. You should try to not take it over 10 miles or so if possible. You may want to take it directly to the shop unless you plan on working on it from home. Keep in mind if you break down, you may be looking at a tow fee on top of the repair costs. If you are going to track down the misfire at home, you will want to inspect the fuel, spark, and air systems. Check into spark plugs and wires, the fuel injectors, and the related air intake sensors. Drive your vehicle home based on your own discretion. If you didn’t notice the issue getting worse the further you drove it, you may be able to make it home or to where it can be looked at. Keep in mind we can dispatch a technician to your worksite to help diagnose and repair the issue where it sits.

My car keeps dying after a jump
ANSWER : The problem sounds like the alternator stopped charging. The battery being dead may have overloaded the alternator since they are designed to maintain the battery and run the accessories, not recharge a battery and run all the accessories. I would have the battery recharged with a charger and then see if it can hold a load. Once that is done then test the alternator to see if it is not charging and needs replaced or maybe just blew an alternator fuse.

Driving, then engine/oil light turns on, steering locks up, car dies; but just fine after turning off than on.
ANSWER : Any time loss of steering, or power assist to the steering is lost, it can be a safety issue and should be looked into as soon as possible. If the oil light and/or check engine light are flashing before it stalls, it can be a few different issues causing this. Also, a fault code may be stored in the system. Warning lights flashing after the engine stalls is normal. Most engine control units monitor readings from the oil pressure switch as well as the dozens of other sensors. Make sure the engine oil level is correct. If the oil pressure switch is intermittently losing it’s signal, then the ecu may think there is no engine oil pressure and shut down as a safety measure.

Have a certified technician look into the engine stalling as soon as possible. Losing steering and brake assist can be a safety hazard.