After a loud metalic squeal, truck will start but won’t run.

ANSWER : Hello. If there is an issue with the drive belt, the engine will start but not run, exactly like you are describing. The issue is either coming from the drive belt not proving power to the rest of the engine, or the engine is having mechanical issues and not providing the drive belt with power. Considering there was a noise coming from the drive belt to being with, you want to focus your attention there first. Check the pulleys for excess play, the belt for any signs of stretching or wear, and make sure the belt is tight. If you could hear the belt skipping or slipping, and at the cost of a belt, you should replace it anyway. Only further inspection will tell, and if replacing the belt does not solve the issue, you need to focus in on looking at the individual pulleys. Contact our service department to for more help resolving the issue.

ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to help. It sounds like you should disconnect the connector to the fuel pump and inspect it for any signs of getting hot. The female connections may be too loose on the fuel pump and lose contact after running and getting hot. If there are indeed any signs of problems, then I’d suggest replacing connector and adding dielectric lube to pins before installation. This should solve the problem, but if you continue to experience issues, feel free to reach out to us for help again.

ANSWER : Hi there. It is possible not only that the serpentine belt need to be replaced, but the pulley’s as well. The metallic sound on start-up might be the alternator or the starter that has been damaged. I would recommend that you have a professional mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to start inspection.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to provide my insight. There are a variety of potential issues that may have caused this. The oil light coming on should not have anything to do with the truck stalling unless the oil level is severely low and the truck’s computer may have gone into "safe mode", which is a safety feature of the truck that is engaged when something goes wrong with the truck that may be catastrophic in terms of engine failure or safety. When this happens, the computer simply shuts the truck down and will not allow it to move in an effort to preserve the engine and safety of the passengers.

If you would like help, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this no-start issue for you, and make or suggest any repairs as needed.

ANSWER : Since the symptoms changed when you touched the battery terminal, it leads me to believe you may have a poor connection and the main battery terminals. If they are badly corroded or have any small cracks, the terminal may be too loose on the battery. You can rule out the battery by removing the connection to the vehicle then testing the battery itself. If the battery is good then reattach the terminals, tighten them and see if you are able to wiggle them on the posts. If the terminal still moves, replace the entire cable. You can cut the terminal ends and replace them, but you will never get as perfect a connection as replacing the whole cable. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at the loss of electrical power situation and run tests to offer a more personal diagnosis.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, you’ve replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump never shuts off and puts fuel in the throttle body, it runs until the fuel is gone, and the odometer has lines instead of mileage. This would appear to be a fuel control problem and communication failure.

Some possibilities are that the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) has shorted internally causing the fuel pump relay to be commanded continuously on, injector driver circuits are inoperative, or failed communication to the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster).

This all needs to be confirmed through diagnostic procedures. I recommend having your vehicle’s fuel pump never shuts off, truck won’t start condition be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.