Actuator might need replacing.

I have various items I need replaced, that I have the parts for, including the headlights and HVAC control unit. I also noticed a loud clicking noise from the dash. I think it is a possible actuator problem.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The clicking noise you hear in the dash is most likely the temperature blend door actuator motor has gone bad. This also would cause a/c problems like lack of temperature control. You could have any mechanic install the parts for you that is qualified to work on cars. The actuator replacement may need a mechanic qualified to work on a/c systems.

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Generally, a noisy actuator does not indicate an actual problem. It is caused by the friction between the urethane belt and the nickel plated pulley surfaces as they rub together during engagement causing a squeak just like your new sneaks on a gym floor .
One possibility is the solenoid. A single “click” sound comes from the engine compartment or from under the car. This could mean that the solenoid is trying to engage but that the internal components are stuck and unable to work properly. Repeated “clicking” sounds usually indicate a dead battery.
If the electronic actuator has failed to open the nozzle ring assembly vanes under acceleration, the turbo will also fail to operate efficiently. If the vanes are set to a closed position, it can cause choking of the engine or overspeeding of the turbine.
If you are hearing a clicking sound, it`s possible there is an issue with the starter system. There can be a faulty battery or alternator, so jump-start the battery with help from a friend or neighbor. If your battery dies shortly after, then you might have a problem with your alternator.
A lot of the noise from a linear actuator comes from the vibration in the actuator housing. As the electric motor runs, it causes vibration throughout the body of the linear actuator. When that vibration makes physical contact with a hard surface area, it will generate a lot of noise as a result.
When you start your car or the AC system, the knocking sound will start, and that`s when you know that you need to get your blend door actuator replaced. Another sign that you might have issues with your blend door actuator is a clicking sound coming from the dashboard.
General Motors LLC (GM) is recalling certain model year 2014 Chevrolet Impala vehicles manufactured March 22, 2013, to May 22, 2014. In the affected vehicles, the electronic parking brake piston actuation arm may not fully retract causing the brake pads to stay partially engaged.
Low oil, oil pressure, or worn tolerances in the valvetrain, can trigger a very distinguished ticking sound. People often call this “lifter tick.” The top end of your engine will suffer initially if you do not have adequate oil or adequate oil pressure.
Do your best to listen for a “click” noise. If the click is strong and loud, it most likely means the solenoid has enough power and is working properly. If the clicking you are hearing is quiet or repetitive, it may be that your solenoid is not strong enough or does not have enough power from the battery.
One of the first and most common signs of a bad starter solenoid is hearing weird rapid clicking sounds. These sounds happen as the solenoid is not receiving the right amount of electrical current. One of the main reasons for this issue is loose connections and issues with the wiring.
If it`s possible to lock out the actuator electrically so there is no current, it may be possible to perform the repairs on-site. For example, if you need a new motor or contactor, a technician will often be able to replace the parts without shutting down the whole line.
In the majority of cases the throttle kicker actuator will last the lifetime of your vehicle without any service or maintenance needed on your part. However, when it does fail it is usually very sudden and completely unexpected.
Actuators are great tools for providing linear motion in an application but can sometimes generate too much noise in certain applications while it is running.
Actuators are great tools for providing linear motion in an application but can sometimes generate too much noise in certain applications while it is running.
Technically, you can continue to drive safely with a broken or faulty blend door actuator, but we wouldn`t recommend doing it for long periods of time. The blend door actuator doesn`t affect how your car drives as it is purely a feature of comfort inside the main cabin.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Do i need to replace the receiver drier and/or the expansion valve when replacing the condenser assembly?
ANSWER : Replacing the system drier is absolutely essential. If the system has been open to the atmosphere (due to the leak in the condenser), the desiccant in the drier has been fully saturated with moisture. As far as the expansion valve, replacement is not normally implicated in a leak repair, in your case a leak in the condenser. To justify replacing the expansion valve, there would have to have been a diagnostic performed which proved a fault. If no diagnostic was performed, and there is no evidence of a fault, then it is pointless to replace the valve. But, again, drier replacement is absolutely essential. To add the drier to your order, you can simply add a note to the mechanic in your order and/or add it as a service (you will see a link that you can click on to "add services" or write in specific services). If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

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Does the CV boot need to be replaced or do i need to replace the whole axle? 2008 Chevrolet Uplander
ANSWER : Hello – the CV joint or axle boot is available separately from a variety of sources. What your mechanic may be saying however, is that given your mileage, it would be best to replace the whole axle assembly for reliability reasons. Replacing the CV boot requires considerable labor as well, and your best repair $ may be to go ahead and replace the whole axle assembly. I would recommend a CV axle replacement by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

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Need to replace front left CV axle, do I need to replace the CV boot as well?
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The damage done to the unit will dictate what exactly needs to be done. If the entire CV axle on one side or the other needs to be replaced, then the entire shaft is typically replaced at once, including the boots. If you need to replace part of the assembly, the boots are serviceable separately on a need be basis. In that case, you would need to know if you were replacing the inner (closest to the middle of the vehicle) or outer (closer to the tire) boot. Once you have made those determinations, corrective action can be taken. For more help with diagnostics or the repair, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

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Does the whole steering column need to be replaced in order to replace a fried steering column module?
ANSWER : I would ask the mechanic for the exact part number of the electronic component that he believes has failed. Or, at least have him "name" the part and indicate where in the column assembly the part resides. The steering column is made up of many parts, most of which are separately serviceable. As discussed below, limp mode (reduced power) has many, many causes. Consequently I would also ask the mechanic to explain to you EXACTLY how he arrived at his diagnosis and ALSO have him show you the exact test results, on a diagnostic tool, multi-meter, or scope, that has led him to conclude that the particular "module" has to be replaced. With no evidence and no intelligible confirmation you would be taking a risk.

YourMechanic does offer a reduced power (limp mode) diagnostic. If you request a reduced engine power diagnostic the responding certified mechanic will give you confirmation of the cause of the issue in your case. Typically, a vehicle’s powertrain control module (PCM) will have stored one or more diagnostic trouble codes that will identify the "general area" in which the fault lies in the engine management controls. Although the throttle control system is a common trouble area with reduced power, there are quite a few other components and systems that could come into play and, of course, there is always the possibility of multiple, or "coincident", faults. Here are some of the possibilities that YourMechanic dispatched technicians would consider:

Defective throttle position (TP) sensor
Defective oxygen sensor
Defective accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor
Loose or damaged wiring
Defective throttle body
Defective powertrain control module (PCM) (not typical; ONLY if a long, long list of other possibilities is ruled out)
Any fault/error that will affect drivability function
Any fault/error that will affect vehicle performance
A fault/error in the emissions system
A fault/error in the throttle control system
A fault/error in the transmission control system

If you request the recommended diagnostic the mechanic will get this resolved for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

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starter switch replaced and do you have the computer to reset it. Also need help to put my new gas tank in. I have taken all bolts
ANSWER : Hello. After replacing the ignition switch on your vehicle you should be able to reprogram it manually. Putting the key into the ignition and leaving it there for a few seconds until an indicator comes up on the dashboard saying “key teach in progress” . After doing that 3-4 times the vehicle should start up as normal. We may be able to get a technician out to you today depending on what area you are in. I will inform customer support of your need for assistance right now but it may be beneficial to call 844-249-6752 and use their call back feature to get the fastest assistance possible.

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Does the replacement of a thermostat include replacing the housing? I was told I needed to replace the thermostat housing.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. The thermostat housing and the thermostat itself are two different components and do not necessarily need to be replaced together or at the same time. The housing is just a piece that covers the thermostat that also has an opening for a radiator hose which is where the water enters and exits the motor. The housing may need to be replaced at times if it is cracked or leaks severely, however they are indeed two different and distinct pieces.

Hope this helps and best of luck.

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Power steering pump on 2012 Acura TL needs to be replaced. Due to location a power bar also needs to be replaced. Cost over $3,000. Is this a good price?
ANSWER : Question sent to CS for a quote on replacing the power steering motor, programming, and replacing an electrical component attached to the motor. This is in comparison to a quote that was given for the parts and labor.

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When replacing the AC Compressor, do I need to replace both expansion valves as well or just the front
ANSWER : Hi there. Anytime you replace major air conditioning system components like the AC compressor, it’s recommended to purchase all supporting hardware and replace it at the same time. AC works as a series of individual components working efficiently together to create cool air that flows into your cabin. As such, if you’re replacing the front expansion valve, it’s a good idea to replace the rear at the same time. This increases overall efficiency of the system, reduces the potential of small component failure and allows the parts you replaced to last longer.

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