ABS Light, car shakes while braking

the abs light is on and the car shakes every time you apply the brakes when your going 60 mph
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Usually when the ABS light is on the dashboard it’s caused by a faulty wheel speed sensor, ABS module, or low brake fluid levels. The fact that the car shakes when you apply the brakes at 60 mph is concerning and may indicate a problem with the brake calipers or the rotor that may be warped or damaged. The best way to determine the exact cause of the light and the brake shaking issue, is to have a local mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, complete an ABS light inspection and assist with repairs.

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Usually when the ABS light is on the dashboard it`s caused by a faulty wheel speed sensor, ABS module, or low brake fluid levels. The fact that the car shakes when you apply the brakes at 60 mph is concerning and may indicate a problem with the brake calipers or the rotor that may be warped or damaged.
When ABS is activated, it pumps your brakes multiple times in succession – much faster than any professional racecar driver can manage. The pulsing you feel is perfectly normal. There is no reason to be worried.
Warped or damaged brake rotors is one of the primary reasons a car shakes when braking. Your car`s brake rotors work in conjunction with the brake pads to stop your wheels from spinning. Over time and with continued usage, the brake pads will wear down and will start to making a grinding sound.
The ABS and Traction Control lights come on any time the vehicle`s computer or PCM detects a malfunction, a faulty wheel sensor, or other mechanical issues. In the absence of the main brake light, these warning lights do not imply anything severe.
If the rotor is warped or has a variation in thickness, you may find your vehicle shakes when braking, or the steering wheel could shake, or the brake pedal may pulsate. Have your brake system checked and, if a damaged rotor is the problem, the part can be replaced.
ABS sensors are cylindrical magnets surrounded by a coil, and mounted inside the disc brake support. They are subject to collect metallic debris from the pads, which will degrade the generated signals to the ABS computer, causing it to actuate ABS inappropiately, evident by the brake pedal pulsating.
The most common reasons a Honda Accord shakes when braking are bad brake rotors, bad brake pads, or a bad wheel bearing.
A stuck brake caliper can also cause brake vibration. The caliper is the device that the brake pads are attached to, and a caliper pushes the brake pads to take hold of the rotors when you apply the brakes. Calipers can get stuck and when they do, you`ll experience shaking or a powerful pull to one side or the other.
If the light comes on, it means that ABS is no longer functioning (it`s been turned off). You will still have all normal braking capabilities, but your antilock system will not work. Your system needs immediate service in this instance.
If the ABS light is on in your Honda Accord, that means the Anti-Lock Braking System is not functioning. A trusted mechanic will be able to pull diagnostic trouble codes for the vehicle, and to inspect the various parts in the system.
Some common symptoms of bad rotors include vibration or pulsation in the steering wheel, high-pitched squealing noise when braking, shaking steering wheel, brake pedal pulsing, vehicle taking a long time to stop, loud bangs while braking, large edges on the outer part of the brake rotor, and scratch marks on the rotor.
This may be a variety of things, such as wheels and tires out-of-balance, poor alignment, worn or failing wheel bearings, worn or failing control arm bushings, or worn or failing suspension components. A wheel bearing will usually fail due to pitting or small damage on the surface of the rollers or the bearing race.
No vehicle steers as easily on a slippery road as on dry pavement, but an ABS will still help you steer to safety. Don`t: Pump your brakes or take your foot off the brake pedal, because that will release the anti-lock system. ONLY pump your brake if the ABS fails and your vehicle starts to skid.
Issues that can result in the tell-tale jerk can be rotors or brake pads that are worn, the hydraulic fluid is low or has air pockets, ABS having faulty wiring, issues with the transmission, or a deeper problem with the brake system.
Dirty or Fatigued Spark Plugs

This puts the pistons in motion and allows your car to start and operate as intended. Dirty or fatigued spark plugs won`t fire evenly, which causes the pistons to misfire and your car to shudder or shake while idling and driving. You may be able to clean dirty spark plugs as a quick fix.

The Shaking is Your Brake Calipers Sticking

The fluid creates hydraulic pressure which forces the caliper to press the pads. If you feel the vibration only in the steering wheel, it could be the calipers sticking and failing to press the pads against the rotors.

Brakes – If the shaking occurs most often when you`re braking, it`s likely that the brake components are responsible for the shaking. Brake rotors that have worn down or lost their round shape will hinder brake pads and calipers from a proper grip or cause skipping.
Early on, it might sound like something is rubbing when you let off the brake pedal. Ignore that and you will eventually hear a metallic grinding, scraping, or rubbing sound that indicates metal-on-metal contact in your brake system. A less-common occurrence is the sound of a “clunk” when you hit the brake pedal.
Wheel Alignment Issues

If your car`s wheels are not properly aligned, it can cause the tires to wear unevenly and the car to vibrate or shake, especially when you apply the brakes.

The four common reasons that typically cause this light to turn on include a malfunctioning ABS module, low levels in the fluid reservoir, broken wheel speed sensors, or the system is turned off. Your ABS actually shares some important components with another system in your vehicle: your traction control system.
CARS.COM — ABS stands for antilock braking system, and if the ABS warning light is illuminated in your car`s gauge cluster, that means the antilock system has been deactivated because of a malfunction.
The ABS brake light doesn`t mean you have zero braking capability. Instead it means that your brakes are now on their own, and you are too. If conditions are bad, your brakes will perform like brakes did before ABS. Without regulation, your brakes may stick right when you need them the most.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

EPC light on 2004 Jetta. Code said brake switch faulty, but brakes lights worked. Replaced brake switch, now no brake lights.
ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.

Abs light, emergency brake light, steering wheel assist light, engine light, EPC light, traction control light
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle does utilize a lot of the same sensors for these systems. Are there any other codes that are coming up when this code appears? If so you will want to take these into consideration when processing the repair and making a diagnosis. The module may be bad, and replacing it should fix the problem. The lights should turn off once the main computer recognizes the new module and the sensors sync up. If you believe the sensors need to be cleaned you may do so. Do as minimal as possible to make sure you are not damaging the sensor or disrupting the wiring inside. A bad connection would make the lights stay on. With so many lights that are effected by the module being illuminated, the module is likely bad or does not have a connection. Check the connection first and then resort to replacing the unit. For more help with these electrical tests, contact our service department.

Brake lights are not working. replaced brake light swtch still no brake lights. the third brake light the connection was melted at
ANSWER : The first thing to do is to repair third brake light and replace the brake light fuse and then see if the third brake lights work and the lower lights start working? If only the 3rd brake light starts working then you may need a further checks on the turn signal flasher or switch could be bad.

When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.

While driving on freeway truck goes into a limp mode, and the check engine light, abs light, parking break light, service brake
ANSWER : It is possible that you could be having an issue with your powertrain control module. This is somewhat of a common problem on many GM vehicles. I would recommend having your vehicle inspected by the dealership to determine if the powertrain control module is functioning properly. If not, a reflash of the powertrain control module may resolve the issue but often times it must be replaced.

Battery light goes on when I start car then turns off, if I rev engine light comes back until rpms go down. Abs goes comes on/off
ANSWER : Batteries can die due to faults in the charging system so ideally a suspected "faulty" battery should be load tested before a decision is made to condemn it. The only exception to this rule is if the battery is already clearly "old" (greater than 5 years) but even then once you put a new battery in, as a replacement for a "dead" battery, you have to comprehensively check out the charging system. Diagnostic Trouble Code P0460 will result in disruption of the dashboard fuel gauge’s ability to accurately report your tank’s fuel levels. The fuel gauge readings may be erratic, or read somewhere off scale. Vehicles equipped with a low fuel warning light feature may also suffer from erratic low fuel warnings in the event of a code P0460. Unless the P0460 code has been reported alongside other trouble code, all of the vehicle’s essential systems should otherwise function normally. I would recommend that you request a check engine light diagnostic to first resolve the fault causing the P0460 code to set. The check gas cap light warning light could be due a faulty gas cap and/or small leaks in the EVAP system.

The battery light and the emergency brake light illuminate when I turn on the car. The car shakes when they are on.
ANSWER : Hello and thank you for your question. Check your alternator for voltage at low idle and when the engine is at 3,000 rpm. It sounds like the alternator is not producing enough voltage at a low rpm. The battery light will come on when the alternator stops charging correctly (13.5 -14.7 volts), plus on some models, the brake light will come on indicating that there is no change in voltage.

For the issue you’ve described, I recommend replacing the alternator. If you need assistance with diagnosing the warning lights and servicing the alternator, then seek out a technician, as one from YourMechanic, that can assist you with your vehicle at your home or office.

abs light on brake line broke have been replace I bleed brake line but brake pad still go to the floor now wheels lock up
ANSWER : Hello. If the brake pedal is going to the floor then that means that it is not building pressure. If the brake system has been fully bled and there is no air in it then most of the time it is a bad master cylinder or it can be caused by a bad ABS module. If the brake fluid was low and if air got into the system then the only way to properly bleed it is with a scan tool that would allow you to open and close the valves in the ABS unit. Air gets trapped in these easily if the brake fluid gets low. This can also explain why the brakes are locking up. I would usually use my scan tool to bleed the system out first before going any further. I would also scan the brake control module to see what it is reading as a fault. If there is no air in the system and if there is no prominent code then I would replace the master cylinder first. If you want to check out why your brakes are locking up, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair this.