a few issues

ANSWER : Hi there. Typically when you hear a grinding noise when you move forward or in reverse it’s usually an indication of a gear fault either in the transmission or another driveline component. If this occurs only when in reverse, it’s likely a damaged reverse gear. It is also possible that it’s a hydraulic fluid issue not supplying enough lubrication or pressure inside the lines to fully open the gear. I would recommend having a professional mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to shift inspection, so they can diagnose the source of your issue and recommend repairs that should resolve this problem.

ANSWER : If the starter motor is turning the engine over at adequate RPM, then you definitely do not have a starter motor issue. Even if you had a bad alternator (and the alternator should absolutely be tested, certainly when you install a new battery because you want to be sure the charging function is working properly) that would not prevent the car from starting. So, if the starter is turning the engine over, but the motor won’t run, you have either a fault in the fuel or ignition systems, or the air induction system. To "quickly" determine if it is a fuel system problem, you can try introducing starter fluid into the intake while cranking and if the vehicle starts at that point that would be an indication that you have, at least, inadequate fuel delivery perhaps due to a fuel pump issue. The most efficient approach to getting this resolved is to just simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will make quick work of this for you. At the conclusion of the diagnostic he will let you know of the fault and the cost to repair. Please let us know how we can best assist you to get your vehicle running properly.

ANSWER : If the vehicle is not starting, simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the underlying fault identified and resolved. Basically, the first thing to do is load test the battery. Although I understand your suspicion that the immobilizer may be preventing the car from starting, until an actual diagnostic is performed that is a speculative cause. If the immobilizer system is on, you may see a security warning light. If you see such a light, to temporarily override the immobilizer system, see these instructions. If you do not see a warning light, again I would not assume that the immobilizer is the problem because there are lots of other potential causes for the no start you are describing.

With a fully charged battery and the immobilizer system off, if the starter motor does not operate, either there is no power to the starter motor, hence the starter circuit would have to be diagnosed, or the starter itself is bad and it would be replaced. If there is no starter motor operation at all, that is if there is no starter operation with the key held in the "start" position, the procedure is to test for power and voltage drops to the starter motor/solenoid. If there is no power or a large voltage drop is measured, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch, neutral start switch, and terminations. Basically, with a fully charged battery, and with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. Note that starters can and sometimes do develop intermittent faults due to bad spots on the armature. The bottom line is if there is battery voltage to the starter (and no excessive voltage drop) and yet the starter doesn’t work, it’s dead. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : The voltage put out by the alternator is typically in the range of 14.2 V to 14.5 V as measured right across the battery posts. If the charging voltage is outside that range, then there is a problem with the charging circuit. The charging circuit includes the wiring, alternator, voltage regulator (often integral with the alternator), fuse link, and all terminal connections. So long as no fault is found in the wiring, fuse link and terminal connections, as measured using standard voltage drop testing, then typically the alternator would be condemned and replaced. Preferred replacement sources for the alternator are dealer OEM new, re-built dealer OEM, and aftermarket reputable name brand vendors such as AC Delco, Bosch, and so forth which may carry both new and rebuilt lines. New alternators are of course the preferred choice. If you desire that the charging system on the car be diagnosed for confirmation that you need a new alternator the recommended service is a charging diagnostic. Please let us know if you have additional questions.

ANSWER : Hey there. The gas smell you experience is most likely due to the unburned fuel due to the engine misfiring. Since you smell unburned fuel, the cause is most likely spark-related. If any spark plug is not firing correctly, the spark plugs themselves can be at fault or they can be the effect.

If an ignition coil is not firing the spark plug, then the bad coil is the cause and the misfiring plug is the effect. Also, the ignition coil may not be firing properly due to the coil itself being shorted or possible receiving a poor signal from the engine control unit.

You should have a certified technician look into the Check Engine Light as soon as possible. Continued driving with the light flashing can cause internal engine damage if not corrected.

ANSWER : Hi there. I’m not quite certain that the replacement of the air bag would impact the vehicle’s ability to start; especially if the engine cranks over. It is possible that during the removal and installation that the battery cables may not have been removed. If this occurred, it may have blown a fuse to an ignition component. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic visit you to complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can pinpoint why your Mustang won’t fire-up.

ANSWER : Hello – since the fuel pump replacement appeared to help "hot starting" for a short time, it is possible that there is a low voltage to the fuel pump issue. Check fuse(s) and ground connections for the fuel pump, as well as corroded plug connectors to the fuel pump if you live in the "corrosion belt" , where road salt can get into electrical connections over time. I would recommend an electrical component inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Hello. This sounds like your clutch is slipping. Check the transmission clutch to see it is slipping and needs to have the clutch replaced. If you would like to have this looked at for you, an expert technician from YourMechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose the slipping problem and advise on a repair.