2011 Buick regal makes ticking noise that increase in frequency with throttle but after sometime it dies off and starts again when
My car has 70000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
A clogged fuel injector can prevent the fuel your car needs to accelerate, thus causing you car to jerk in the process. If you hear your car engine stuttering, then the injectors may not be providing an adequate amount of fuel. To fix this, you should clean the injectors on a regular basis.
If they are more contaminated than usual, that means more dirt will be getting to your cars` combusting cylinders, resulting in jerking after accelerating. Replace the fuel and air filters regularly to prevent this from happening.
spark plugs seal off each cylinder, so if one cracks or gets loose, you`ll hear a ticking noise. this is a common problem after diy tune-ups.
The air filter functions to prevent dirt and debris in the air from entering the engine. If it`s dirty, it could restrict airflow to the engine, thus reducing the amount of oxygen that the engine gets. This causes an uneven oxygen-to-fuel ratio in the engine which leads to misfiring and car jerking.
Often, a lifter tick will be most prevalent as soon as you start the engine, and may get quieter or disappear completely as the engine warms up.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
A failed alternator diode(s) allows voltage to flow both directions or no flow at all resulting in noise heard and erratic electrical operation. It could be a faulty idle air control valve. The idle air control valve can make noise and would account for the erratic idle and sporadic dying. It could be an accessory component, such as an A/C compressor, serpentine belt tensioner, or idler pulley, power steering pump making noise and placing undo load on the engine at idle. If you would like to have this done, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the noise and stalling issue.
If the battery checks out, then the problem is a bad connection in the starting circuit. The first test I do, which may be irrelevant since you have already replaced the starter, is to tap on the starter with a hammer while someone is attempting to start it. If it cranks the motor, it needs a starter. It is possible a new starter is bad, so there is still some value in performing this test.
If this doesn’t reveal a bad starter, another simple and test is to attempt to crank the car for up to thirty seconds. Pay attention to smoke or any electrical burning smells that might occur. If you experience one of these, immediately stop and look under the hood for a hot spot in the battery cable connections. Feel both battery posts, the positive and negative battery cables, the ground connection at the frame and the main power connection at the starter. If any of these are hot or warm, it is a bad connection.
If that doesn’t reveal anything, the next step is to use a test light to see if the starter solenoid is getting power from the ignition switch. If it is not, you will need to use a test light to find our where the connection is lost. The suspect parts are the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch (aka the transmission range switch). You will need access to a wiring diagram and a test light for this portion of the testing.
If you should require further assistance, I recommend having a professional technician, like one from YourMechanic, diagnose your starting issue so that this can be repaired.
